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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Tanners Gulch
> Hidden Heavenly Slab
North of Heaven
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.4 from 34
votes
Routes in Hidden Heavenly Slab
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6 Ways From Sunday T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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7th Way, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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All About Volume T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Altered Alter Boy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Apostate Apsotle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Black Sabbath T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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East Coast Insecurities T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Golden Plates T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Guardian Angel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Indie Dog Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lonely Sinner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mischievous Moroni T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My God, Your God T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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North of Heaven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Paradise on Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Personal Jihad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Playa Hater T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pudgy Pastor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Resurrection to Eternal Life T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Siberian Sinkhole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Son of a Preacher Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 07' |
| Page Views: | 1,507 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tyler Phillips on Oct 13, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1. Pull up onto some broken terrain in an open book of sorts, locate a fixed pin and climb up to the bolt. From the 1st bolt make a weird mantel and cruise up to the bolt line staying to the left. A few cam placements augment the space in between the bolts. A hard move onto a a stance brings you the last roof, climb up and left passing a pin the angle right passing another pin to the belay. Steep and kind of intimidating. 5.9
P2. From the belay traverse out right towards the arête clipping a fixed pin. From the fixed pin climb up slotting a big cam (#3 camalot is nice). Make an airy traverse over the lip of the roof on good feet to clip the 1st bolt. Slab your way up a highly featured slab to a big ledge and belay. 5.8+
P3. Traverse out right from the belay to the first black streak. Clip a fixed pin and pull onto the slab. Pad your way up super fun slab to a cool corner that eats up gear. Pull up and over the steep-ish corner and climb slightly left to find another fixed pin and mantle to the belay. 5.8
It is possible to continue up to the last pitch of 6 Ways from Sunday for one more pitch. 5.11-
P2. From the belay traverse out right towards the arête clipping a fixed pin. From the fixed pin climb up slotting a big cam (#3 camalot is nice). Make an airy traverse over the lip of the roof on good feet to clip the 1st bolt. Slab your way up a highly featured slab to a big ledge and belay. 5.8+
P3. Traverse out right from the belay to the first black streak. Clip a fixed pin and pull onto the slab. Pad your way up super fun slab to a cool corner that eats up gear. Pull up and over the steep-ish corner and climb slightly left to find another fixed pin and mantle to the belay. 5.8
It is possible to continue up to the last pitch of 6 Ways from Sunday for one more pitch. 5.11-
Location
Start below the obvious ?black streak? to the right of The 7th Way start.
(see![]()
The Hidden Heavenly Slab topo. )
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