Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas 07'
Page Views: 761 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Oct 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1. Pull up onto some broken terrain in an open book of sorts, locate a fixed pin and climb up to the bolt. From the 1st bolt make a weird mantel and cruise up to the bolt line staying to the left. A few cam placements augment the space in between the bolts. A hard move onto a a stance brings you the last roof, climb up and left passing a pin the angle right passing another pin to the belay. Steep and kind of intimidating. 5.9

P2. From the belay traverse out right towards the arête clipping a fixed pin. From the fixed pin climb up slotting a big cam (#3 camalot is nice). Make an airy traverse over the lip of the roof on good feet to clip the 1st bolt. Slab your way up a highly featured slab to a big ledge and belay. 5.8+

P3. Traverse out right from the belay to the first black streak. Clip a fixed pin and pull onto the slab. Pad your way up super fun slab to a cool corner that eats up gear. Pull up and over the steep-ish corner and climb slightly left to find another fixed pin and mantle to the belay. 5.8

It is possible to continue up to the last pitch of 6 Ways from Sunday for one more pitch. 5.11-

Location

Start below the obvious ?black streak? to the right of The 7th Way start.
(see
The Hidden Heavenly Slab topo. )
Rap the route

Protection

(1) #3 camalot, (1) .75 camalot and a set of TCU’s should suffice. QD’s and a few shoulder slings. 70M rope

Photos