Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Luke Douglas,Tyler Phillips '07
Page Views: 316 total · 3/month
Shared By: Luke Douglas on Nov 5, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Pitch1-From the grey bolt that marks the start move up and slightly left, aiming for a short left facing corner.As you approach the corner keep alert for any TCU placements.Two more bolts deposit you on a ramp.Make your way across the ramp to a ring piton which marks the path through this jumbley roof. A traverse,above the roof and to the right will lead you to the anchor. 5.10a
See topo this page.
For an alternate start you can skip the bolts and go directly up the ramp to the ring pin.
Pitch 2-Pad your way up to the black roof, taking care to slot a #0 at the roofs left apex.Make some hard and balancy moves over the lip and follow the shallow corner up to a second roof.A pin at the roofs lip leads to a bolt and the belay. 5.10a
Pitch 3-If you have followed the Mischievous Ones path this far keep the faith and persevere. Your reward is near. See the GOLDEN PLATES route description for pitch 3


This climb begins aprox. 100' up canyon from the first pitch of North of Heaven. Once you come to the foot of a big ramp continue around to its front and locate the bolt that marks the start of pitch 1.


Rack to #2 Camalot, 3 #1 TCU's, many slings, Rap North of Heaven


Todd H
Sandy, UT
Todd H   Sandy, UT
2 star route with a 4 star name. We rapped it with a 70m rope (not sure why the description recommends to rap North of Heaven instead). Jun 28, 2015
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Description is confusing. After good climbing on first bit to slab cross directly to pin and go up - anchors are directly above, no traversing. 2nd pitch has some poor rock quality and the 0 TCU slot is hard to find. It is right near the lip, make sure you find it and don't use the poor placement lower down my partner used. Also no pin on 2nd roof like book states. Sep 18, 2017
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.10a PG13
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.10a PG13
Never found any of the pins. The 2nd pitch roof isn't TOO bad...but I was unable to find a placement to keep the faith. Pretty sure that slinging the bush was useless but helped me persevere. Pretty thin protection throughout. Aug 5, 2018
Evan Ratzan
Salt Lake City, UT
Evan Ratzan   Salt Lake City, UT
I pulled a microwave sized block of rock off from about 5 meters above the 3rd bolt, it is very loose up there. Sep 9, 2018