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Routes in Hidden Heavenly Slab

6 Ways From Sunday T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
7th Way, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
All About Volume T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Altered Alter Boy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apostate Apsotle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Black Sabbath T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Golden Plates T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guardian Angel T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Indie Dog Memorial Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lonely Sinner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mischievous Moroni T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My God, Your God T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North of Heaven T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradise on Earth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Personal Jihad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Pudgy Pastor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Resurrection to Eternal Life T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Son of a Preacher Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft, Grade II
FA: Luke Douglas, Tyler Phillips 11/05/07
Page Views: 1,645 total, 15/month
Shared By: Luke Douglas on Nov 4, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1. From the starting bolt make some sporty moves on big holds to gain the golden slab above. After clipping a bolt an angling foot ramp and some delicate footwork allow you to gain a TCU placement out right. From this placement move onto the face and towards the roof taking advantage of a good horizontal (TCU). At the roof clip a bolt and climb straight up passing horizontal placements and one final bolt. Mellow climbing leads to the anchor. If you fail to correctly translate the message of the Golden Plates and stray from the path expect some run out climbing. Do this climb!!
Pitch2-PROJECT
Refer to the topo on the Hidden Heavenly page.

Location

This climb can be accessed by ascending Mischievous Moroni (the Golden Plates lie directly above the top anchors of Mischievous Moroni) or by belaying from the Guardian Angel station(In which case you will traverse out right under the roof clipping 2 pins and slinging them long. Step down and right to locate the bolt under the roof that marks the start of the Golden Plates. Going this path you will encounter some R climbing as you make your way to the bolt.
For the best outing climb North of Heaven to its top and at the base of the first rap move your belay over to the top of Mischievous.

Protection

(3) #1 Metolius , QD’s, a few slings

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Cool route but after snapping holds on 2nd pitch of Mischievous Moroni my faith in the gear holding was a bit shaken. Gear for me was some small nuts and cams up to 0.5. Sep 18, 2017