5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Tyler Phillips rope solo 10/10/07 First two pitches. The last 6 bolts on the current P2 were added later by T.Phillips and Jeremy Polk in 2013|
|Page Views:||1,447 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Tyler Phillips on Oct 14, 2008 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
P1. Start just on the right side of the jumble cleft. Locate a bolt on an arête off an exposed stance, climb up clipping a few more pitons while aiming for the 2 black streaks that run under a roof. Slot some good gear under the roof, locate the jug above and get established on the slab. Climb the obvious bolt line placing the occasional piece, from the 4th bolt climb to the right on a patina dyke to the break in the mini roof, from here climb straight up passing a hard to see pin to a bolted belay on the big ledge in between the belay(s) of 6 ways and Indie Dog. 5.8+ 200ft.
P2. Clip a pin at the lip of the mini-roof (a great way to find the P2 belay is this pin). Climb up very featured slab placing cams and clipping pitons and bolts to a step. From here use cool jugs and pull the lip, and ignore the belay out right (that was the end of the rope solo adventure and will be a belay for a proj out right). Instead keep following the orange bolts on the left. Climb up awesome holds and really fun steep movement to a slanting ledge and chain belay. 200ft 5.9
I am currently working the pitch above this.
Starts about 50 feet to the right of Indie Dog Memorial
(see The Hidden Heavenly Slab topo. )
The 7th Way rappel is the best way down. Those anchors are out left from the top of the first pitch.