Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches
FA: Tyler Phillips rope solo 10/10/07 First two pitches. The last 6 bolts on the current P2 were added later by T.Phillips and Jeremy Polk in 2013
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Shared By: Tyler Phillips on Oct 14, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

P1. Start just on the right side of the jumble cleft. Locate a bolt on an arête off an exposed stance, climb up clipping a few more pitons while aiming for the 2 black streaks that run under a roof. Slot some good gear under the roof, locate the jug above and get established on the slab. Climb the obvious bolt line placing the occasional piece, from the 4th bolt climb to the right on a patina dyke to the break in the mini roof, from here climb straight up passing a hard to see pin to a bolted belay on the big ledge in between the belay(s) of 6 ways and Indie Dog. 5.8+ 200ft.

P2. Clip a pin at the lip of the mini-roof (a great way to find the P2 belay is this pin). Climb up very featured slab placing cams and clipping pitons and bolts to a step. From here use cool jugs and pull the lip, and ignore the belay out right (that was the end of the rope solo adventure and will be a belay for a proj out right). Instead keep following the orange bolts on the left.  Climb up awesome holds and really fun steep movement to a slanting ledge and chain belay. 200ft 5.9

I am currently working the pitch above this.

Location

Starts about 50 feet to the right of Indie Dog Memorial

(see

The Hidden Heavenly Slab topo. )

The 7th Way rappel is the best way down. Those anchors are out left from the top of the first pitch.

Protection

Set of cams to #1 camalot, TCU’S, QD’s, a few shoulder slings nice.
70m rope

Photos