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6 Ways From Sunday

5.11b, Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 12 votes
FA: Brian Smoot Tyler Phillips Luke Douglas 07'
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Tanners Gulch > Hidden Heavenly Slab
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description

P1.Find a pin and start on the far left side of the slab. Scramble up to a nice ledge and make a belay (one bolt). Can be combined w/ P2

P2.From the lone bolt make your way up a faint black streak passing a bolt that leads to a small mini roof. Clip 2 more bolts on the way up the featured slab to a nice ledge and a single bolt belay (can be backed up). 5.8+

P3. Traverse straight right across the ledge to the far left black streaks. 5.2

P4. Climb up beautifully featured black streak placing gear and clipping the occasional bolt. From the 2nd bolt make your way right on a ramp/crack to 3 bolts up nice rock. From the last bolt aim up and right climbing over a steep left facing corner with jumble blocks nearby. Belay at 2 bolts. 5.9

P5. Climb up the steep black streak. Fun sport climbing up beautiful rock. 5.11-

Location

This start is on the left side of the slab. (See
)

If rapping back down 6 Ways From Sunday: from the last anchor (P5) you need to make a angular rap back to the top of P3, 2 ropes required.

Or from the top anchor on 6 Ways From Sunday rap over to North of Heaven top anchor and drop 70m raps.

Protection

Single set of cams to #2 camalot, TCU’s very helpful. QD’s, shoulder slings nice. 2 ropes needed if rapping the line.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] I never found the single bolt belay on top of P1 but ended up at a set of chains which, based on pictures & the book, should be a bit to the left (2nd rap to get off the base of Specter without a 70m maybe?). I linked into the 2nd pitch and got some juicy rope frag from the pin under the roof. When you're at the bolt above the roof the route head rightm don't get lured to a bolt up and left, that's Personal Jihad. Didn't find the single bolt on top of P2 either... Jul 2, 2018
[Hide Comment] Can't speak to the first 4 pitches because we reached the final pitch by climbing North of Heaven. This was a blast with super easy logistics, as the final anchor has a nice ledge and there is easy gear to get to the first bolt of that last pitch.

This pitch is a total Stoke Generator! Especially now that we re-cleaned some of the dirt off the jugs around the second and third bolts.

Classic Tanner's edges, jugs, flakes and horns make this one of the most fun .11b sport pitches in LCC. Look out for "License to Thrill cheater beta" between the 2 cruxes.

The top anchor has solid bolts but it would be cool if the next person up would please bring half a foot of chain to modernize the webbing. Who knows if you'll be able to open that old quicklink, so bring an extra, a small wrench and a knife. Jun 14, 2020
Lam Lam
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Thank you for cleaning up that last pitch Tenesmus! Couldn't help but get on it after watching you get stoked! Steep, a little pumpy, and good sporty moves high off the deck..in LCC?!?
I wish I would've seen your comment before we ventured up there - the last anchor could definitely use a little love. Jun 24, 2020
Adam Fleming
AMGA Certified Rock Guide,…
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] I would recommend a more direct start as opposed to climbing p1-p3. You're not missing anything; the goods on this climb are the final pitch.

Snow was up to b1 for the start, rapping over the randkluft was trival. Bring a piece of chain or cord to replace the tat on the final anchor. Jun 26, 2023
[Hide Comment] The final anchor has been improved with a chain and is good to go. Sep 15, 2023
Tim O
Slc, ut
[Hide Comment] Not sure if a bolt has been chopped or if the no hands stance 10-15' up on p4 was just passed by a slab crusher on the fa, but thought I would add you will have to climb about 25' up over a massive ledge to the first bolt on this pitch. Didn't see this coming from the guide or mp description but expect some 5.8 or so friction moves risking a big ground pound when you're already a few pitches up. Imo a bolt should be drilled at the no hands stance right off the belay if this is something the fa party would approve. Jun 8, 2024
Crag Turkey
Liberty Wells, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Was super stoked on the last pitch of this after linking in from NOH… would recommend whoever takes P3 of NOH keep traversing over to the chains below 6th way for a tighter belay… but gave me a good reason not to fall. Sep 14, 2024