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6 Ways From Sunday
5.11b,
Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches,
Avg: 2.7 from 12
votes
FA: Brian Smoot Tyler Phillips Luke Douglas 07'
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Tanners Gulch
> Hidden Heavenly Slab
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1.Find a pin and start on the far left side of the slab. Scramble up to a nice ledge and make a belay (one bolt). Can be combined w/ P2
P2.From the lone bolt make your way up a faint black streak passing a bolt that leads to a small mini roof. Clip 2 more bolts on the way up the featured slab to a nice ledge and a single bolt belay (can be backed up). 5.8+
P3. Traverse straight right across the ledge to the far left black streaks. 5.2
P4. Climb up beautifully featured black streak placing gear and clipping the occasional bolt. From the 2nd bolt make your way right on a ramp/crack to 3 bolts up nice rock. From the last bolt aim up and right climbing over a steep left facing corner with jumble blocks nearby. Belay at 2 bolts. 5.9
P5. Climb up the steep black streak. Fun sport climbing up beautiful rock. 5.11-
Location
This start is on the left side of the slab. (See
)
If rapping back down 6 Ways From Sunday: from the last anchor (P5) you need to make a angular rap back to the top of P3, 2 ropes required.
Or from the top anchor on 6 Ways From Sunday rap over to
North of Heaven top anchor and drop 70m raps.
Protection
Single set of cams to #2 camalot, TCUs very helpful. QDs, shoulder slings nice. 2 ropes needed if rapping the line.
Small Lake, UT
This pitch is a total Stoke Generator! Especially now that we re-cleaned some of the dirt off the jugs around the second and third bolts.
Classic Tanner's edges, jugs, flakes and horns make this one of the most fun .11b sport pitches in LCC. Look out for "License to Thrill cheater beta" between the 2 cruxes.
The top anchor has solid bolts but it would be cool if the next person up would please bring half a foot of chain to modernize the webbing. Who knows if you'll be able to open that old quicklink, so bring an extra, a small wrench and a knife. Jun 14, 2020
SLC, UT
I wish I would've seen your comment before we ventured up there - the last anchor could definitely use a little love. Jun 24, 2020
AMGA Certified Rock Guide,…
Snow was up to b1 for the start, rapping over the randkluft was trival. Bring a piece of chain or cord to replace the tat on the final anchor. Jun 26, 2023
Slc, ut
Liberty Wells, UT