All Locations > Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Infirmary Slabs > Upper Infirmary Slabs

Merit Based Pay

Name: Merit Based Pay
Rating: 2.1

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

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Routes in Upper Infirmary Slabs

L › R R › L A › Z

	Admission Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Air Apparent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Cracked Lens T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Emergency Entrance T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Haradrim T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	IV League T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Merit Based Pay T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mûmakil T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nocturnal Emissions TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Remission S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Submission T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Type:	Trad, Sport, 85 ft (26 m)
GPS:	40.18803, -105.33378
FA:	Bernard Gillett, 2002
Page Views:	3,423 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Bruce Hildenbrand on May 29, 2008
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays Details

Per Climbing Puerto Rico: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.

From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.

During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.

codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…

Access Issue: CLOSED - PRIVATE PROPERTY. This entire area is on private property and is closed. Details

Per Matt B: this entire area (including Upper Infirmary Slabs) is on private property. Check USFS maps, and you'll see a rectangular chunk of private property just off the road at the beginning of Coffin Top Gulch. This unfortunately includes the beginning of the Coffintop Trail as well. As it stands, the landowner does not want climbers on his property, so these crags should be avoided.

Description

This slab route is on left side of Upper Infirmary Slab (before you get to Western or Left Infirmary) and shares the first three bolts with Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress). At the horizontal break just above the third bolt, traverse slightly right and clip a fourth bolt. The crux (5.6+/5.7-) is gaining the thin crack above the 4th bolt. Continue up the crack, as it opens up to thin-hands, placing gear to the fifth and final bolt. The top shares the same anchor as Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress).

Protection

5 bolts plus small stoppers or small Aliens down low in the crack to finger to thin hand-sized pro (to a #0.75 Camalot) up higher.

There is a bolted rappel anchor at the top.

Location

Per Dave Holliday: This route is on the left side of of Upper Infirmary Slab (but not clear over at Left Infirmary Slab, called "Western Infirmary" in the latest guidebook). Rappel about 60-90 feet from a bolted rappel anchor.