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Routes in The Yosemite Boulder Area

Ammunition V6 7A
Bloody Knuckles V5+ 6C+
Brett Does Lawn Jobs (aka.- Keep it Subtle) V5+ 6C+
Bulletproof V6 7A
Ceadas V11 8A
Death of the Blues V4 6B
Dream of Life, The V7 7A+
Gun Show V8 7B
Hemlock Gate V0 4
Kalbro V3 6A
Kids With Guns V0+ 4+
Knuckle Dragger V4 6B
Missile Command V8 7B
My Girlfriend V2 5+
NRA V3 6A
One in the Chamber V3+ 6A+
Out of Ammo V7 7A+
Power & Technique V4 6B
Slab-dercling V0 4
Standard Direct V3 6A
Standard Route V2 5+
Still Remains V1-2 5
Very Bad Idea, The V4 6B
Yosemite Arete V4-5 6B+
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Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,354 total · 18/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Oct 11, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

There is never chalk on this one. Maybe because it's quite tall. Fortunately, the crux is down low. Start on the left side of the arete and slap up on technical ground with a few reachy moves and small feet. Scary moves at a crack/corner lead to a horizontal crack already high off the deck. Then make a great traverse left in the do-not-fall zone to the path of least resistance to the top (summit). Downclimb cracks and chimneys on a different side.

Location [Suggest Change]

The big boulder close by Kalbro

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pad - downclimbing ability

Photos

BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V5
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V5
I had to climb this one with a brush in my mouth just to clean off the sloper before the crux move. The move can be friction dependent. Apr 2, 2008
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  V4
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  V4
I may be thinking of a different problem, but I didn't thihnk that this problem was hard, just tall and scary. It's on the backside of the Yo boulder like you're heading towards Kalbro. It's the really tall arete that follows a crack system up to the big horizontal breaK? Aug 22, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
i believe your right nhclimber... and i would agree that it doesnt look too hard but i would much rather not risk that fall haha Aug 22, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  V4
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  V4
I got sandbagged into climbing it and had no interest in trying the fall. Aug 23, 2009
AWinters
NH
  V4
AWinters   NH  
  V4
great climbing but f*ck that sloper, you don't need it. Also, if you get thru the crux there's really no chance of falling up high Sep 26, 2010
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V4+
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V4+
Agree with Adam. You don't need the sloper, though it might be useful for some people. I felt the crux was the move to reach the flake/corner. Whether this feels like v4 or v5 is likely dependent upon reach, as several moves and the crux are probably a little bit easier for taller folks.

Absolutely outstanding rock quality and aesthetics. Wish there were more climbs like this at Pway! Aug 28, 2013
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
Not that scary actually, always thought it would be, if you can get past the sloper there's no chance of falling. Awesome climb! May 3, 2015
Graham O.
  V5
Graham O.  
  V5
I have two things to say about this climb. The first is that it is ridiculously hard for "v4", especially for those on the shorter side. I used beta including the sloper and some hideous crimps to gain the sidepull flake. The second is that this an amazing climb! It astonishes me that more people don't try this! Perfectly sculpted compression, sustained feel, definitive crux, fun movement, perfect rock, and a considerable thrill factor make this a classic! One of the best lines I've done at Pway and certainly in the top 10 under v5's in the park. Phenomenal climb, really a must-do, but climb well above v4 before doing so.

I have tons of photos of this that I will post soon. Sep 4, 2016

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