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Routes in The Yosemite Boulder Area

Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,289 total, 19/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Oct 11, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

There is never chalk on this one. Maybe because it's quite tall. Fortunately, the crux is down low. Start on the left side of the arete and slap up on technical ground with a few reachy moves and small feet. Scary moves at a crack/corner lead to a horizontal crack already high off the deck. Then make a great traverse left in the do-not-fall zone to the path of least resistance to the top (summit). Downclimb cracks and chimneys on a different side.

Location

The big boulder close by Kalbro

Protection

Pad - downclimbing ability
Graham O.
  V5
Graham O.  
  V5
I have two things to say about this climb. The first is that it is ridiculously hard for "v4", especially for those on the shorter side. I used beta including the sloper and some hideous crimps to gain the sidepull flake. The second is that this an amazing climb! It astonishes me that more people don't try this! Perfectly sculpted compression, sustained feel, definitive crux, fun movement, perfect rock, and a considerable thrill factor make this a classic! One of the best lines I've done at Pway and certainly in the top 10 under v5's in the park. Phenomenal climb, really a must-do, but climb well above v4 before doing so.

I have tons of photos of this that I will post soon. Sep 4, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
Not that scary actually, always thought it would be, if you can get past the sloper there's no chance of falling. Awesome climb! May 3, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V4+
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V4+
Agree with Adam. You don't need the sloper, though it might be useful for some people. I felt the crux was the move to reach the flake/corner. Whether this feels like v4 or v5 is likely dependent upon reach, as several moves and the crux are probably a little bit easier for taller folks.

Absolutely outstanding rock quality and aesthetics. Wish there were more climbs like this at Pway! Aug 28, 2013
AWinters
NH
  V4
AWinters   NH  
  V4
great climbing but f*ck that sloper, you don't need it. Also, if you get thru the crux there's really no chance of falling up high Sep 26, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  V4
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  V4
I got sandbagged into climbing it and had no interest in trying the fall. Aug 23, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
i believe your right nhclimber... and i would agree that it doesnt look too hard but i would much rather not risk that fall haha Aug 22, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  V4
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  V4
I may be thinking of a different problem, but I didn't thihnk that this problem was hard, just tall and scary. It's on the backside of the Yo boulder like you're heading towards Kalbro. It's the really tall arete that follows a crack system up to the big horizontal breaK? Aug 22, 2009
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V5
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V5
I had to climb this one with a brush in my mouth just to clean off the sloper before the crux move. The move can be friction dependent. Apr 2, 2008