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Routes in The Yosemite Boulder Area

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,575 total, 13/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Oct 11, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

This awesome arete problem is tucked away in the heart of Boulder Natural. Start sitting and layback up the underside of the attractive overhanging corner, then flip your body to the slabby side of the arete and make a super fun and delicate smearing move to top out at the apex. If only it were longer! Pictures of this aesthetic problem have been featured far and wide.

Location

By the streambed by the Yosemite Arete

Protection

Pad?

Photos

Graham O.
  V2
Graham O.  
  V2
Sick! Definitely one of the better climbs I have done at the grade at Pway. I start on 2 small crimps on the overhang, in Eric's vid he started on the arĂȘte... anybody know what the actual start is? Jul 7, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V3
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V3
phenomenal climb that doesn't get the love it deserves, one of the best in boulder natural.

Edit: as I feel like telling a few stories.

First got on this climb a year ago in the oppressive heat of father's day. I was the only climber in boulder natural, entertaining dozens of hikers and their children. Never having been on the climb, I climbed to the tenuous topout, with my single pad, desperately grabbing the mossy top slopers, thinking at any second I'd be mush and random hikers would have to peel my sorry ass off the ground and into the hospital. Thankfully I did not slip, and topped out the problem.

Subsequent repeats felt less tenuously terrifying, but I've seen some friends have epics on this climb. I definitely think it's true to the grade with good beta and commitment, but the position you end up in for the topout can be terrifying depending on conditions and environment.

Definitely have at least a competent spotter. I still think though, that this climb is phenomenal and not to be missed. Jun 15, 2014
Eric-- I think the "?" Probably has to do with the fact that Tristan probably didn't own one when this was posted, haha. Anyways, yeah, it's a scary landing. Nov 26, 2013
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
  V3
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
  V3
Kalbro starts @ ~0:50
vimeo.com/53565022 Nov 15, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  V3
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  V3
eric- i too loved this line and though i wish i had more pads and a few spotters i did fall from the top out (way harder than i thought it would be... hard for v3 IMO) and i fell on to the pad i had sitting on the rock below and stumbled back a little but i was fine... i must admit i was surprised that i didnt shatter a leg or anything but it was cool to take the fall that i had dreaded so much... i was still nervous enough that i made sure i figured out better beta and didnt fall from it again just in case my luck ran out haha...
the bummer was that the video camera i had set up shut off before catching my lucky fall... Oct 22, 2012
Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
  V3
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
  V3
Absolutely awesome. But to the "protection: pad?" in the description - what the hell are you talking about?? This thing -requires- at least two pads and a very competent spotter - the landing is not very forgiving if your foot were to slip. Oct 21, 2012
andyscott
Massachusetts
V3
andyscott   Massachusetts
V3
One of my favorite climbs in the park. This one is awesome, and I am suprised it does not get more attention. Nov 27, 2010
AWinters
NH
 
AWinters   NH  
 
add some difficulty and craziness by doing a direct mantle at the top instead of exiting right... Nov 9, 2010