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Routes in The Yosemite Boulder Area

Ammunition V6 7A
Bloody Knuckles V5+ 6C+
Brett Does Lawn Jobs (aka.- Keep it Subtle) V5+ 6C+
Bulletproof V6 7A
Ceadas V11 8A
Death of the Blues V4 6B
Dream of Life, The V7 7A+
Gun Show V8 7B
Hemlock Gate V0 4
Kalbro V3 6A
Kids With Guns V0+ 4+
Knuckle Dragger V4 6B
Missile Command V8 7B
My Girlfriend V2 5+
NRA V3 6A
One in the Chamber V3+ 6A+
Out of Ammo V7 7A+
Power & Technique V4 6B
Slab-dercling V0 4
Standard Direct V3 6A
Standard Route V2 5+
Still Remains V1-2 5
Very Bad Idea, The V4 6B
Yosemite Arete V4-5 6B+
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Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 656 total · 6/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Aug 28, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Suggest Change]

A great, friction-dependent line that feels impossible until you figure out body position and slot your heel perfectly. Just right of Bloody Knuckles, sit start with a good left hand sidepull and your right hand on the pinch of The Very Bad Idea. Pull up and snag the severely sloping lip with your left hand before traversing up and left to reach the jug on Bloody Knuckles and finish as for that climb.

Location [Suggest Change]

This problem starts between Bloody Knuckles and The Very Bad Idea below the slopey lip. Downclimb an easy slab towards a tree to get down.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Pad, spotter

Photos

Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
The landings for this and Bloody Knuckles aren't great. If you fell too far out from the rock you could tumble down a really steep drop and probably hit a tree. My friend made the landing a lot better by moving some large branches (basically dead trees) and wedging them in front of a tree, so there's something to help raise the pads up to an angle now. When we were trying these we never fell very far from the boulder, so I can only really imagine the landing being a problem if you take an unexpected fall from the slab.

Anyways, these problems are really fun and more people should get on them. Dec 24, 2015

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