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Routes in The Yosemite Boulder Area

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 637 total, 6/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Aug 28, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A great, friction-dependent line that feels impossible until you figure out body position and slot your heel perfectly. Just right of Bloody Knuckles, sit start with a good left hand sidepull and your right hand on the pinch of The Very Bad Idea. Pull up and snag the severely sloping lip with your left hand before traversing up and left to reach the jug on Bloody Knuckles and finish as for that climb.

Location

This problem starts between Bloody Knuckles and The Very Bad Idea below the slopey lip. Downclimb an easy slab towards a tree to get down.

Protection

Pad, spotter

Photos

Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
The landings for this and Bloody Knuckles aren't great. If you fell too far out from the rock you could tumble down a really steep drop and probably hit a tree. My friend made the landing a lot better by moving some large branches (basically dead trees) and wedging them in front of a tree, so there's something to help raise the pads up to an angle now. When we were trying these we never fell very far from the boulder, so I can only really imagine the landing being a problem if you take an unexpected fall from the slab.

Anyways, these problems are really fun and more people should get on them. Dec 24, 2015