Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Vasya Vorotnikov
Page Views: 1,411 total · 12/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

One of the newer hard problems in the area, this is unfortunately only climbable when the stream dries up and the lagoon in the pit is gone. Starting in the pit, climb the steep face on bad crimps and pinches until you can reach around the left arete to a sidepull flake before finishing up. You may want to pad the low angle slab behind you in case of a backflop.

Location

This problem climbs the overhanging face left of Kalbro. Climb the into the pit to reach the start.

Protection

Pads, spotter

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Reaching on the lower part of the problem
Reaching on the lower part of the problem
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Cool route
Cool route
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Hard moves on thin holds
Hard moves on thin holds
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3 Comments

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Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Can anybody offer up more details about how this line starts and what the general line of travel is? Do you immediately move left from the start to the arete or is it more diagonal? Aug 28, 2013
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V11
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V11
If I remember correctly, it starts standing on the lowest usable hold and stays on the face, climbing diagonally up to the sidepull around the arete up high. Aug 28, 2013
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V11-
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V11-
Climbing this was a lot more fun than I was expecting it to be. The movement is great and the holds are really unique. If it weren't for the first couple chossy holds and the bad landing I could see this getting 3 or maybe even 4 stars. As it is its still a pretty good line. The landing can be protected with 4 pads and the slab behind you really doesn't come into play until the last couple of moves. Footage of this climb starts at 6:26. youtube.com/watch?v=Q9HRSmh… Dec 29, 2016