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Routes in The Yosemite Boulder Area

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,291 total · 11/month
Shared By: Lanky on Jun 20, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Sit start next to the tree on the left, using a left heel hook, an undercling for the right and a decent hold near the heel for the left. Move up to a higher undercling for the right, drop into a bad left hand crimp, set your feet and jump for the lip. Squeeze hard. Top out on jugs.

The bad left hand used to be better, but broke a few years ago. This got a V5 in the last guidbook (which I always thought was sandbagged anyway) and it's way harder now.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the same smallish boulder as Bulletproof (which is called Gun Club in the guide), near Kalbro.

Protection [Suggest Change]

One or two pads and you'll be fine.

Photos

Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V8
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V8
I always thought this started with both hands on the underclings, left hand up left, then huck up and right. May 2, 2014
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
Not sure what I was intending when I wrote this. It's not accurate as written. I'll tweak it.

BTW, I've always started with a lower right undercling, moved into the higher one, dropped left hand into the horrible sharp hold and then hucked for the lip. Or rather, failed to huck for the lip. May 5, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V8
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V8
My first comment was meant to be a question, thanks for the clarification. So the problem starts more left than I'm thinking, I see.

Thanks! May 5, 2014
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
That's always been my understanding. Bryce or someone else who knows the history might have a better idea. May 6, 2014
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
The original problem broke years ago, but has always been a sit start next to the tree with a left hand sidepull and the lower undercling. Before a 9" wide chunk of rock ripped off, the beta was to get a left heel hook and drop into a sloping ball with the left hand, bump out to the other undercling and then jump to the lip. Now that the bigger hold is gone, there is still the shitty hold, but the sit start remains. It used to be a cool problem, now it's a pile of crap. May 6, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V8
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V8
Finally got on it today and managed to send. Using the original method was actually much more fun and physical than the comments here seem to indicate. Very enjoyable for a slightly-contrived lowball. Dec 26, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
Nice work, Ian. I always thought this line looked cool, but I was always distracted by other problems. Psyched to steal your beta when I'm back in the area. Dec 29, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V8
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V8
Thanks man, went down quick, fit me very well, only thing different I did from the description was heel after getting the second undercling. Fun burly lowball on mostly friendly holds, kinda un-pawtuckaway. Dec 29, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
I have to agree with Ian's sentiments. This line is awesome. Engaging intro moves lead to a large feet cutting dyno (for me at least), with some really cool compression moves to finish. The dyno move was one of the cooler single moves that I've done in Pway.

I didn't find any of the holds to be particularly sharp. In fact, as Ian stated they are mostly friendly. More people should climb this. To give this one star is crazy. May 13, 2015
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V8-
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V8-
Actually a really good climb. If you're trying bulletproof with some buddies give this a few tries. Not a pile of crap. Fun intro moves and a big dyno for the lip. Footage starts at 4:48 youtube.com/watch?v=gZDYL2i… Jan 16, 2016

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