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Routes in The Yosemite Boulder Area

Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Nadya Vorotnikova
Page Views: 937 total, 55/month
Shared By: Nadya Vorotnikova on Jun 28, 2016 with updates
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

If crimpy, technical highballs are your jam, I would highly recommend this climb.

Start on an undercling on the right side of the small roof and make a move to a left hand crimp. Above it, snag the slopey crimp rail and work your way up and left on delicate feet to two very positive crimps. Straight up to the top from there is very thin and requires delicate footwork and balance.

The lower half of the climb has some obvious flakey holds that should be avoided.

!!! IMPORTANT !!!

Please dismantle the log bridge/dam that is used as a landing for this climb after you are done working on it each time. It causes lots of water to flow around the boulder and increases the erosion/flooding on both sides. The water normally flows directly under the boulder and rarely around the sides. Please do this so we can preserve good relations with the park and abide by LNT principles. Thank you!

Location

Right side of the back wall on the Yosemite Boulder, above the stream bed.

Protection

Having logs over the stream helps diffuse shock and will keep your pads from getting soaked. Having multiple pads and spotters is ideal in case you dry fire off the top.

Photos

Nadya Vorotnikova
Nashua, NH
 
Nadya Vorotnikova   Nashua, NH
 
Christian! I feel it's on par with Moment of Light - I loved the movement and thought it was aesthetic, but since YOU gave Moment of Light 3 stars, I didn't feel right giving this one 4 :)
Glad you're about to crush it, hope you enjoy it as much as I did! Oct 17, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
That was my chalk, Troy. So, you're welcome. :)

I cleaned the line a bit, removed some tree limbs and worked the moves. My older self doesn't enjoy long falls anymore so I like to be smart about how I work tall lines. I'm planning on climbing it sometime this week. At that point, I'll brush the ticks off.

How can you give this line only three stars?? I would give this line five stars if I could. Aesthetic, proud, tall with a flat landing, good movement on good rock and an engaging crux at nearly 25 feet. So good, Nadya! I'm a little bummed I didn't do the FA first, as this one was on my project list, but I'm so proud that you're the one who ended up doing it first! Oct 15, 2017
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V7
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V7
In my opinion this is one of the proudest lines in all of Pawtuckaway. I got lucky and saw it all chalked up at the end of the day today and managed to send. Being on the two sidepulls up high and looking down wondering if I should keep going or bail out was one of the biggest adrenaline rushes I've ever had. Such a memorable climb. Oct 14, 2017
Nadya Vorotnikova
Nashua, NH
 
Nadya Vorotnikova   Nashua, NH
 
Thank you for bringing this to our attention, Alec! Definitely don't want to create more erosion. Will pass the message on to anyone working the climb and will tear down the log bridge if I see if up without anyone working the climb. May 7, 2017
Alec Woolley
Nottingham, NH
Alec Woolley   Nottingham, NH
To anyone trying this climb:

Please dismantle the log bridge/dam that is used as a landing for this after you are done working on it each time. It is causing a lot of water to flow around the boulder and increasing the erosion/flooding on both sides. The water normally flows directly under the boulder and only to the sides rarely.

That being said, it isn't something one would think of so its understandable why the landing would be left. It definitely is causing damage and ethically for good relations with the park, should be taken down.

Can't wait to try out the climb though, looks great! May 7, 2017
That is 100% fine. Awesome work you guys! Jan 7, 2017
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Nadya, I'll reassign this over to you so you can edit as you need (Hope you don't mind, Graham) Don't forget guys, you can use the 'improve this page' button. Jan 7, 2017
Nadya Vorotnikova
Nashua, NH
 
Nadya Vorotnikova   Nashua, NH
 
Working on it, guys! Jan 7, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
I agree with Andrew. Jan 7, 2017
Great work Nadya and Miles! Loved seeing the video, perfect name.

Nadya I think you should repost this with your own description. Awesome job! Jan 6, 2017
Nadya Vorotnikova
Nashua, NH
 
Nadya Vorotnikova   Nashua, NH
 
Thanks guys! I'm a little hesitant to add the route here because I'm not sure if it was an FA. I've never had an FA, and it seems suspect that such a neat technical line wasn't done at Boulder Natural. Grading is also super tricky for me. Haha, Christian, I thought you'd appreciate the name. I told you I'd probably put too much thought into it, I could discuss the topic for hours. Jan 3, 2017
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
Absolutely stunning performances, this line is special and insanely proud, congratulations to you two!

Maybe this page should be removed or altered and Nadya or Miles can re-add the climb and give it a better description? Jan 3, 2017
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V7
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V7
Incredible to see this boulder problem climbed twice in one day. This is the line directly over the stream. It is extremely high and has probably never been bouldered before. Here is the footage I got of the two sends that day. youtube.com/watch?v=1iMdBMv… Jan 2, 2017
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Christian, The line Nadya put up is the one that Miles is on in the photo (formerly the stream project). It's sick, but also extremely sharp. Jan 2, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
Something needs to get changed here because you basically have the original description of what is essentially a direct line to 'Keep It Subtle' mixed with a photo from Miles that is actually the line to the right of this. So, is this the name and grade for the direct finish to 'Keep It Subtle' or is it for the line that Miles is on in the photo?

If it's for the latter, then the description needs to be altered or a new route should be created and added to this section. It's worthy of a top notch description from Nadya and company. And this one can be separately listed as an undone project.

If the line over the stream has in fact been done, that's awesome. Nice work Nadya! It's definitely one of the most aesthetic lines in Pway and I'm impressed. A line and name after my own heart. :) Jan 1, 2017
Miles Galloway
Raymond, nh
 
Miles Galloway   Raymond, nh
 
We climbed the line that is directly above the stream bed on the Yosemite boulder. The two bolts are on the slab to the left of this line, we couldn't use them. It felt v8 to me, but the mental battle was much harder than that. Plenty of pads and spotters. Jan 1, 2017
There is no anchor, but there are two bolts that might rip if you were to fall on them. The upper v3 is super sketchy, definately optional. If you must do it, you might even want to untie on the ledge first. The arĂȘte thing you mentioned I'm pretty sure is a trad project potentially going at 5.13a and will probably get an X rating. Anyway, the upper section is not really advised. Jul 5, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Christian,

I do remember seeing a bolt way on top of the bolder, like if you could climb Yosemite Arete, but continue climbing directly way up the arete instead of breaking left to the flake, that's where the bolt is, at the very top of the boulder at the end of the arete (if I remember correctly). I do believe I saw another bolt up there, but I think it was to the right of the yosemite arete. I know the crack that starts right of Yosemite Arete and wraps around is supposed to be like a 5.12...

I think a good bet would be to wait for winter ice so the water freezes and then try climbing this... You'll need cold conditions anyways... those crimps look small and slopey. If anyone could get it I bet you could Christian, since you've said technical crimping/slab is your style (Voodoo Child, Midnight In A Perfect World). Jun 28, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V7
Is there an anchor for this line? Bolted or gear? If gear, any insight on what size gear is needed to build one?

I have always been intrigued by this line... Jun 28, 2016
I made a mistake with the height. 23' is the height up to the ledge. The next section is another ten feet. Also, you need two quick draws with you. Jun 28, 2016