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Routes in The Yosemite Boulder Area

Type: Boulder, 16 ft
FA: Troy Fauteux
Page Views: 425 total · 24/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Sep 21, 2016
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

You & This Route


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Description

Tired of small crimps and sharp holds? Get on this superb sloper testpiece then. Sit start with a good right hand crimp and a high left hand on the slopey lip. Pull on with good feet and make moves leftward on divots and awesome slopers. Get the right hand on the lip and make a big shouldery move from a divot way out left to the sloper sidepull. Tenuos footwork allows for a match in the same area with your choice of a pinch, crimp or divot. From here drop into the horn as for the first move of "Bulletproof" and match, or go big and hit more divots and finish up the arete with a heelhook.
Super pumpy and unique movement, along with friendly holds make this a good project and a sweet problem!

Location

Same boulder as "Gun show" and "Bulletproof". This line starts way right of "Bulletproof" start.

Protection

Three crash pads should do.

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
Footage of this problem starts at 5:52

vimeo.com/192883568 Nov 24, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8
This climb is really quite good. One could argue that it's better than 'Bulletproof'. The moves flow nicely. The holds are all pretty friendly. This felt solidly v8, while 'Out Of Ammo' is probably a touch easier, but not by much, mostly because it's less pumpy. Both are nice additions to the Boulder Natural circuit.

The only thing I can find fault with is the name. 'Missile Command' isn't bad, but there are so many possiblities for this one. 'Sun's Out, Guns Out', 'Locked & Loaded', 'Armor Plated', 'Armor Piercing', 'Hollow Point'. I could keep going, but I'll stop.

Anyhow, thanks for putting this one up. It's a worthwhile line. Nov 11, 2016
Looks pretty cool! You should get on this party trick Keith was trying, does Gunshow to bulletproof and down-climb Bulletproof before finishing on Ammunition. v9? Anyway, nice work on the send! Sep 22, 2016

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