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Routes in Bush Shark Area

Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hammerhead T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Westron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 220 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff and Marc Beverly
Page Views: 1,124 total · 9/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


Approach as for Bush Shark Spire Route.

Keeping with the theme names of the area, Hammerhead starts to the right of Bush Shark Spire Route and left of the Bush Shark Gully.

P-1: Keeping the riff-raff off, the heady start follows the bolted line up and to the right to the gully for a quick rest. Then cruise out left and up over bulging terrain to the large red overhang where you'll traverse nearly straight left to the hidden but nice belay stance, a perfect small ledge just above the main roofs at half height on the Bush Shark Spire.

P-2: A fixed nut should start you off on the gently overhanging and sustained left-trending fissure that eventually opens up and grants you some good gear placements. Clean falls may be enjoyed in a very aesthetic venue. When the corner/roof feature near the top is reached the belay anchor is up and slightly right, though you will first move left to get around the roof.

To descend rap the route or down climb to the Bush Shark Spire Route rap (two sets of bolted anchors to the ground) from the notch. Or, better yet, climb Blood In The Water, 5.12c 17 bolts, and another easier trad pitch (5.8) after that to gain the top rap anchor station.


TCUs, Camalots to #2, Wires, draws. 60m rope.


LeeAB Brinckerhoff
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Depending on who you talk to the first pitch is anywhere from 5.11 to 5.12- and the second pitch is 5.11+ to 5.12. That said I think the first pitch is 5.11c/d and the second is 5.12a and probably the most continuously steep 5.12- in the range. I do have a concern about the 1st pitch, when I was bolting this about 2/3 of the way up you climb into a small left facing dihedral formed by a block on your right, this block seemed like it would be hollow but I could not get it to budge, it seems to me the last time I was up there as if it had actually gotten looser, the route could be redirected slightly left onto the arete at this point and I don't think it would be any harder and would need 1 or 2 bolts and of course pull the one in the dihedral. Just looking for input from others that have been on it and to say if anyone gets real anxious to feel free to do this as I'm not sure when I'll be able to get out and do it myself if people think this is the right thing to do. Aug 6, 2008
Boulder, CO
MattL   Boulder, CO
First pitch I would give 5.11d, second 5.12a. The second pitch is probably one of the best 5.12a pitches in the sandias. Jul 25, 2009
Mick S
Mick S   Utah
Four star second pitch, one of the best of it's grade in the Sandias. Nov 2, 2009

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