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Routes in Bush Shark Area

Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hammerhead T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Westron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Wayne Taylor, Eric Keto, 78
Page Views: 4,043 total · 30/month
Shared By: Chuck McQuade on Jan 6, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Like the Candle in Chimney Canyon, this route leads to one of the few spire summits in the Sandias. An interesting route with a good hand crack on P1, the second pitch contains the routes crux which occurs right off the belay. The climb ends at a bolted anchor just short of the spires summit. A short section of class 3 scrambling can be done to top out on the summit.

P1: (90’) Starts at the spire’s west face, underneath a large roof. Follow a good hand crack broken up with intermittent ledges. The pitch ends at a bolted belay on a small but good ledge.

P2: (70’) Head straight up negotiating a small bulge (crux). Follow a broken dihedral to the bolted belay.

Descent: Rap the route [straightforward with 2 ropes or a 70m rope; a single 60m rope will also work but is not ideal]

Protection

Standard rack: double Camalots 0.5-2", some slings.

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.9
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.9
Ryan, you are correct, the rappel needs a 70m rope to reach the ground. Don't worry, the first pitch is the better of the two and a half, you should go back though to tag the summit. Next time if your out and getting threated with weather you could TR feeding frenzy and if the S**T hit the fan just lower and pull the rope and get out. Aug 6, 2008
Ryan Smyth
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
Ryan Smyth   Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
First time leading a 5.9 trad. What a blast. Once you reach the crack, it is on. only got to do the first pitch because thunder and rain scared us off. Lots of jamming and some good liebacking. I wouldn't recommend trying to rappel from the first belay station. unless you have a 70m rope or are willing to do some downclimbing hah. heh. Aug 5, 2008
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.9
If you don't want to rappel off, and don't need to return to the base, you can top out by continuing up Garden Party (1 long pitch+ 1 short pitch, "5.8+"), which (despite the name) actually has pretty good climbing too Jun 22, 2007