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Routes in Bush Shark Area

Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hammerhead T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Westron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kevin Jaramillo, solo, 2/7/98. (free variation Mick Schein and partner- John Kear?)
Page Views: 498 total, 12/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Jun 28, 2014
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Cabron is another good 5.10 climb in Echo Canyon; though it is a bit more serious than most of the other nearby 10s. It shares some terrain with Westeron Wynde and Pantomime. It was originally done solo with some aid, then later freed using a variation to bypass the aid crux to its left. A (which does not show the free variations to p3 and p4) was posted by the FA; it should suffice if you're aware of what's up on p3. The free route is shown in "Sandia Rock".

P1. Same as for Westeron Wynde. The left variation (5.10, recommended) pulls thin moves past 2 bolts. A right variation (5.9) climbs an ugly-looking wide crack in a left-facing corner. Both starts merge after 80' and follow easier cracks. Build a belay at 115' at a small ledge.

P2. Climb easy cracks, step right into a poorly-protected left-facing corner with bushes. Stem and/or climb the face to the right. Pass a small pine tree and move left to a belay stance with 1 bolt below a beautiful face (5.9, 115'). If you move left to the face early, a thin crack goes directly up the face to the belay (at 5.10b according to the book). You can link the first 2 pitches with a 70m rope.

P3. This pitch is a gem but somewhat heads-up. Climb the finger crack splitting the beautiful face above the belay (5.9+). Free variation (5.10b, not shown in ): Just before you reach the roof, move left to the left edge of the face. Turn the roof, clip a pin, and angle back right. Follow a splitter 5.9+ finger crack to a stance belay below the big roof system at the top (150'). (The original aid line goes straight up to the roof and pulls through it on fixed heads (C2). Pantomime starts up the finger crack, then follows a crack angling right, then gains the same finger crack above.)

P4. Step left to a bolt, crank the memorable roof (5.10d) and continue up featured low-angle face to a 2-bolt anchor (60'). The original route turned the roof right of the bolt, following a crack (5.10+). You can link p3 and p4 with a 70m rope.

Location

Cabron is on the south face of the Bush Shark buttress, around the corner from the Bush Shark Spire proper and partly the side canyon which separates Bush Shark buttress from Yucca Flower Tower buttress. Its 1st pitch is shared with Westeron Wynde, then moves right of Westeron Wynde on the 2nd pitch.

shows p1.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 2 or 3", including RPs.
70m rope useful

Photos

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