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Routes in Bush Shark Area

Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hammerhead T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Westron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 110 ft
FA: Matt Lawry, Lee Brinckerhoff, Seth Romo and Curran Lemp
Page Views: 97 total, 1/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Jul 16, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Head up past the first 2 bolts on the second pitch of Big "T". Continue straight up past another bolt, then move left over some loose rock into a left facing corner (gear). Continue up the corner reaching back right around the arete to clip a bolt. Work up the corner past some hollow flakes and onto the arete. Make tenuous moves around the arete and back onto the face (crux #1). Continue traversing right to a hands off rest. Clip a bolt, then work up into an undercling from where you can clip the 7th bolt. Make a big span up to some edges then tick tack your way right along a serise of edges ending in a difficult move to a 2 finger pocket (crux #2). Rest up and clip the 8th bolt then make tricky, reachy and scrunchy moves up and right to the last bolt then move up and back left to the arete where the climbing eases and a piece or two of gear takes you to the anchors shared with Big "T".

Location

A variation to the second pitch of Big "T". Climb the first pitch of Big "T" or make the first 3 raps in to the ledge at the top of the first pitch. To get off either make 2 raps with a 70m rope or climb the 3rd and 4th pitches of Big "T" to the top of the wall.

Protection

9 bolts and some small to medium gear (fingers and thin hands) to a bolted anchor.

Photos

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MattL
Boulder, CO
  5.12d
MattL   Boulder, CO
  5.12d
Here's some background info on the name. In January 2009 Seth Romo and I put in the first five bolts on this line. Due to car situations, we told our wives to meet us on the backside of the sandias at 6ish. The iced over La Luz trail got some evening sun that melted the top layer- making it slick as snot. I think it took us 1 1/2 hours to hike out. We were two hours late. Hence Curfew. Sorry Tricia and August!

P.S. - Thanks to Lance Hadfield for pointing out the line to me. Jul 25, 2009