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Routes in Bush Shark Area
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Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hammerhead T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Westron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Lee Brinckerhoff and Marc Beverly |
| Page Views: | 1,616 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This is the route that goes directly out the series of large red overhangs on the Bush Shark Spire. Start 3m right of BSS route. It was first aided on lead by MB at C3-ish. The bolts are in now and LB sent it at 5.13. The crux is about 15 moves of bouldery and sometimes dynamic climbing through the roofs.
Amble up the somewhat loose and interesting face and corner system (5.10 gear and a couple of bolts) to the base of the roofs. Compose yourself. Start with a series of long moves to get out and established in the roof zone. Then start working the stepped corner and arete out right through the remainder of the roof. Finish with a few long moves on slots straight up to the stellar belay below the second pitch of Hammerhead.
For a truly burly outing continue up the second pitch of Hammerhead and finish off with Blood In The Water.
Amble up the somewhat loose and interesting face and corner system (5.10 gear and a couple of bolts) to the base of the roofs. Compose yourself. Start with a series of long moves to get out and established in the roof zone. Then start working the stepped corner and arete out right through the remainder of the roof. Finish with a few long moves on slots straight up to the stellar belay below the second pitch of Hammerhead.
For a truly burly outing continue up the second pitch of Hammerhead and finish off with Blood In The Water.
Protection
small trad rack with 1-2 small TCUs, a couple med wires, and a couple med cams to gain the bolts. Another route takes the crack up Great White and exits right to gain the finish of Hammerhead.
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