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Routes in Bush Shark Area

Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hammerhead T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Westron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 90 ft, Grade II
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff and Marc Beverly
Page Views: 738 total, 6/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 21, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is the route that goes directly out the series of large red overhangs on the Bush Shark Spire. Start 3m right of BSS route. It was first aided on lead by MB at C3-ish. The bolts are in now and LB sent it at 5.13. The crux is about 15 moves of bouldery and sometimes dynamic climbing through the roofs.

Amble up the somewhat loose and interesting face and corner system (5.10 gear and a couple of bolts) to the base of the roofs. Compose yourself. Start with a series of long moves to get out and established in the roof zone. Then start working the stepped corner and arete out right through the remainder of the roof. Finish with a few long moves on slots straight up to the stellar belay below the second pitch of Hammerhead.

For a truly burly outing continue up the second pitch of Hammerhead and finish off with Blood In The Water.

Location

As for Bush Shark Spire

Protection

small trad rack with 1-2 small TCUs, a couple med wires, and a couple med cams to gain the bolts. Another route takes the crack up Great White and exits right to gain the finish of Hammerhead.

Photos

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13b PG13
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13b PG13
Thanks to all the people who helped with this route. First of all, Marc for putting the bolts in since I could not TR it to work out the moves, it's just too steep, though addmittedly they did not end up in the right place once the sequence was figured out. Lance moved one of the bolts when I was out with him trying the route and working on Big T and I moved another at a later date. I will say that with how steep this line is, those bolts were a real pain in the butt to drill being that you are completely hanging on your harness and leaning back, major ab workout. Then the multiple people that went down there and were kind enough to belay while I warmed up and tried the route, first with Monomaniac then with Marc Ripper and finally Linda. Thanks. Aug 6, 2008