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Routes in Bush Shark Area
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Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hammerhead T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Westeron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 35.20217, -106.44633 |
| FA: | Lance Hadfield, Ian McMillan, Lee Brinckerhoff and Marc Beverly: 8/2005 |
| Page Views: | 3,146 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Chuck McQuade on Jul 22, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
P1) Some key bolts (6) with great gear opportunities in between lead to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2) Starts with bolted face climbing followed by great climbing through a series of small roofs and ledges leading to another 2-bolt anchor and the money headwall pitch of the climb.
P3) The crux pitch. The first bolt is right off the belay. Clip it, pull on a flake, and make a few moves to clip the next bolt. Balancy moves that force good posture take you through incredible face climbing to a thin crack, some more easy face climbing, and to a nice belay ledge.
P4) Essentially a lower 5th class scramble to the top.
Location
30 yards north of Bush Shark Spire proper. Look for a bolt 10 feet off the ground near a large boulder
Protection
Small to medium trad rack, several draws as there are a number of bolts supplementing p1-p3. Use caution if rappelling the route with a 60m rope, the rap down to the p1 belay station is definitely a rope stretcher.
[ADMIN NOTE: I found that the following rack was sufficient for this climb: Camalots, single set: #00 to #1 C3, and 0.3 to #1; Nuts; 11 draws/slings.]
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