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Routes in Bush Shark Area

Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hammerhead T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Westron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, Alpine, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff and Marc Beverly
Page Views: 753 total · 6/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climb left out of the notch onto the scooped red wall. As the wall steepens encounter the first crux on delicate holds as you approach and pass a small roof. Once above the roof there is a great ret out left on a hold shared with Big - T, one could theoretically finish on the 3rd pitch of that route. From the rest head up and right on the steep wall with several long moves past the second crux finishing at the base of a shallow corner. Move back to the left onto the long and sustained but easier face up to the anchors above.

Approach: Find the Yucca Flower Towers and go towards to NW for 30m to gain the prominent ridge top North of the Bush Shark Spire. Rap bolts are somewhat clandestine. You will need to leave a cordalette to rap off trending climber's left to the next station with a good stance. The stance is hard to see until you're about 10m away.

Next, use a 70m rope doubled to rap in to the Bush Shark Notch, hanging some directional draws on the route as you rap in. Use a few small cams for the belayer to keep them secured into the notch for a descent belay stance.

Protection

17 bolts protect the climbing while a few small cams blue, yellow and orange TCUs set a nice belay stance for your belayer in the notch.

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