Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 35.20217, -106.44633
FA: Mark Dalen, Mark Leonard 1980
Page Views: 3,916 total · 18/month
Shared By: Chuck McQuade on Jul 1, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Warning Access Issue: SANDIA CREST CLOSURE ALERT - Beginning APRIL 30, 2026, 140 acres at the top of the Sandia Mountains is under a closure order. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Many consider the (5.9) variation of P3 to be one of the Sandia's best at its grade.

Pitch 1 (5.9) Climb straight up the major weakness. Ignore at least the second of two bolts on the left, unless 5.10 face is your stronger suite compared to the style of climbing that lies ahead: continue up through a short chimney / off width section (5.9, visible from belay). 10 or 20 feet higher, left and up a ramp to belay below the first small roof. About 160 ft (depends on which belay ledge you start from).

Pitch 2 (5.8) Surmount a small roof (5.8) and continue up the corner above. Traverse left to the arete when an easy opportunity to do so arises. Continue up the left side of the arete to the ledge with the pine tree. Belay at the tree. 130ft

Pitch 3 (5.9) Step right from the belay into the first corner system which goes at (5.9). The further corner to the right goes at (5.10a). Both corner systems meet at a bulge. After the bulge (crux) head up to a second roof bypassing it on its left side. Head up through easier terrain to the top of the formation belaying from a well camo'd bolt or large trees at the top.

Location Suggest change

Approx. 100 yards beyond the Busk Shark Spire. The route starts between the second and third of 3 big fir trees in a narrowing gully on a south facing wall. Look for the first of two bolts protecting delicate face climbing on P1.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Sandia's rack, doubles especially useful 0.3-#1 camelot. P2 belay requires some larger pieces: #2-3 camelot. There are spots for micros. 

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