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Routes in Bush Shark Area

Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hammerhead T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Westron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kevin Jaramillo Evan Belknap
Page Views: 723 total, 8/month
Shared By: KevJ on May 26, 2010
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

I soloed a route named Cabron in Echo Canyon years ago which had a section of aid. I revisited a couple years later and freed a line I named Pantomime which climbs in and out of Cabron. 3 Pitches located south of Westeron Wynde. Pitch 1-Starts on a sw facing slab at the mouth of a large Gully. Look for horizontal slots and sneaky gear leading up through a bulge (5.10+) with a stance and thin crack above it... send the bulge to the stance protect the seam and work up and left to a belay stance below a dead tree. P2 5.9 Climb up left to a bolt (cabron) then straight up some cracks and hollow sounding blocks on a nice face avoiding a thin seam (cabron) by trending right then back left and up to a ledge and belay below a roof and corner. P3 5.9 climb the right side of the roof past a large chockstone to a handcrack and the summit.

Location

South of Westeron Wynde

Protection

standard Sandia rack nothing bigger than a BD#2

Photos

Mick S
Utah
Mick S   Utah
Kevin, just to clarify, I only added one bolt, on the variation to the last pitch, which turns the 5.10+ roof. I also added a fixed pin to the free climbing left of the A2 section. Nice work on those routes, they have great climbing. Feb 18, 2014
KevJ
 
KevJ  
 
Nice work on the free variation you guys did Mick! Apologies for any confusion. I guess it was kind of a team effort creating those lines between all of us and John Kear as well.

I had forgotten about your bolts until I read your comment. I now remember seeing the bolts when I went back with Evan to do Pantomime. They looked like they are to left of where I went at the top when I did Cabron. I had stayed in the crack system. So, I was thinking of your line as it's own variation not knowing what all you guys climbed. No hard feelings about the bolts on the first pitch. I ran that out pretty good when I did it and doubt many people would want to do the same. I did Cabron years ago & in a day. Thats why I aided that short section wanting to stay on the nicer stone.

Seems like people can pick any variation they feel like in that area now. Great for the excellent cragging people can do in Echo Canyon. Nice work on the guidebook Mick and thank you for creating it. Feb 17, 2014
Mick S
Utah
Mick S   Utah
It's an aid route unless you free climb it, which we did, which is what is described in the guide. It's called Cabron in the guide since that is what you named it. You are also given credit for the FA, aid climb or free climb. BTW, I contacted you via email after we free climbed it (many years ago), since at that time I didn't know who did the FA. We added a bolt and pin to our free variation (NOT to the aid sections), and had I known who did the FA, I would have contacted you first. At the time you didn't have a problem with it, and I don't believe you had done Pantomime, or at least you didn't mention it. It's a nice section of stone, however you climb it. Dec 12, 2013
KevJ
 
KevJ  
 
I believe the new Sandia guidebook by Mick Schine has this route listed as Cabron or something confusing...Cabron is a AID route. The 5.10 free line is called Pantomime and starts in the gulley across from A Date With Death. Cabron starts to the left of the wide crack which is left of Pantomime. Dec 12, 2013