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Routes in Bush Shark Area

Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hammerhead T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Westron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Marc Beverly
Page Views: 1,067 total, 9/month
Shared By: Alam on Sep 14, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Another great route, with very good rock.

Pitch 1 - the seam starts about 60 feet to the right of where bush shark spire joins the main wall (not 60 feet to the right of the bush shark start). The start is really at the toe of the wall. With good eyes you can see the 2 bolts at the first belay from the ground.

Pitch 2 - Work up right and clip a bolt and then work straight up on the face past assorted bolts.

Pitch 2 variation - clip first bolt, and then trend left on ramp system using natural gear until about 40 feet below ledge with big tree. At this point you will find a finger hand crack that goes straight up 40 feet, stepping RIGHT at the final 5 feet to gain the large ledge and the 2 bolt belay.

Historical note - this belay point is the same one we always used for the final pitch of some other unnamed route (our exit from bush shark) - now you have 2 bolts to clip and do not need to rig gear at the tree of the pillar. This unknown route traverses in from the left from the bush shark spire notch (after finishing bush shark spire route), through grungy rock and 1 lone pin ( a pitch to avoid anyways). While the 3rd pitch of ghost rider follows the fins and bolts through the small roof directly above the belay (great pitch!), the unnamed route follows the flakes and face climbing 15 - 20 feet to the left of the first 2 bolts on Ghost Rider, and then continues angling left to the summit.

  • **9/2011*** It has been made clear that this final pitch described here is not Garden Party, but just another un-named climb in the area.***

Protection

Wires, TCUs, Camalots to #3, 8-10 alpine draws, several quick draws.

Photos

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Kerr Adams
Albuquerque, NM
Kerr Adams   Albuquerque, NM
Approach information for the top of the cliff:

From the trail junction continue on the La Luz trail towards the tram. After a few minutes you will see and aspen tree on the right with a heart carved into it (see photo.) Just after this tree you will see a climbers trail on the right. Take this trail down to the top of the cliff.
GPS Coordinates:

Carbon Anchors: 35.20211, -106.44608 (No anchors on route)
Ghost Rider Anchors (Updated soon):

Gaia GPS Oct 5, 2017
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
Great climb. To find the start, look for a bolt 15' up; it's on the big wall to the right of the Bush Shark Spire tower (not on the tower itself, and before you turn the corner into the side canyon with Westeron Wynde). Jun 9, 2013
mattb19  
I wanted to let people know that this climb is to the right of the spire not the left. It is to the left of Western Wynde. The seam is is easy to locate once you look up and see the first pitch anchors. It starts on a small bulge against the rock. May 8, 2012
Alam  
Climbed this again - I still have NOT gotten the 2nd pitch correct!

There are 3 bolts on pitch #2. First bolt is above belay, and can be climbed to directly. From here trend up and slightly left. The 2nd bolt is ABOVE an overlap/ledge about 50-60 feet from the 1st bolt. The large left trending ledge (described in P2 variation above) starts here and goes left. I never saw this bolt the first time we climbed the route. From the 2nd bolt climb straight up and then step right to 3rd bolt and then back left to large belay with 2 bolt belay (or climb much easier left ledge P2 variation].

How not to do P2!!! From first bolt climb straight up and over small 1 foot black roofs (looked interesting) There is some delicate face climbing here, but after about 50 feet you will find yourself above very small gear, with diminishing gear ahead. I traversed hard left for 30-40 feet to escape this mess only to stumble into bolt #2.

The granite on P3 near bottom was a little grainy - needs more climbers to clean it up. Oct 12, 2011