Avg: 2.4 from 5 votes
Routes in Bush Shark Area
|Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Big - T T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Blood In The Water S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Bush Shark Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Cabron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13|
|Curfew T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Feeding Frenzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Garden Party T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Ghost Rider T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Great White T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Hammerhead T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Mudshark Arpeggio, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Pantomime T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Westron Wynde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, Sport, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||1,067 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Alam on Sep 14, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionAnother great route, with very good rock.
Pitch 1 - the seam starts about 60 feet to the right of where bush shark spire joins the main wall (not 60 feet to the right of the bush shark start). The start is really at the toe of the wall. With good eyes you can see the 2 bolts at the first belay from the ground.
Pitch 2 - Work up right and clip a bolt and then work straight up on the face past assorted bolts.
Pitch 2 variation - clip first bolt, and then trend left on ramp system using natural gear until about 40 feet below ledge with big tree. At this point you will find a finger hand crack that goes straight up 40 feet, stepping RIGHT at the final 5 feet to gain the large ledge and the 2 bolt belay.
Historical note - this belay point is the same one we always used for the final pitch of some other unnamed route (our exit from bush shark) - now you have 2 bolts to clip and do not need to rig gear at the tree of the pillar. This unknown route traverses in from the left from the bush shark spire notch (after finishing bush shark spire route), through grungy rock and 1 lone pin ( a pitch to avoid anyways). While the 3rd pitch of ghost rider follows the fins and bolts through the small roof directly above the belay (great pitch!), the unnamed route follows the flakes and face climbing 15 - 20 feet to the left of the first 2 bolts on Ghost Rider, and then continues angling left to the summit.
- **9/2011*** It has been made clear that this final pitch described here is not Garden Party, but just another un-named climb in the area.***
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