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|Shared By:||Andrew Tower on Jul 4, 2007|
Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Not very visible from the ground as it is in the alcove between Fuson's Folly and Crack a Lo Lo. Scramble through the chimney (sort of a solo that is very easy, although you could rope up if you feel unsafe about it). Belay at the top of the Alcove. Climb up about 40 feet of unprotected slabby (but juggy) face to the horizontal crack which leads to the slanty and beautiful hands and thin hands crack. A little tricky if you aren't a crack climber but very fun.
Gear, nuts and cams, no anchor. Walk over to the upper set of anchors (Where lost my religion and Fuson's Folly end). Either bring two ropes or rap twice (through the whipping post anchors) ooorrr bring a stretchy rope and do one rappel from the top (which is possible although you might have to down climb a tiny little bit. just tie knots in the end of your rope.
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