Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Terry Andrews
Page Views: 589 total · 4/month
Shared By: Andrew Tower on Jul 4, 2007
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Although listed as a sport route I have to warn you there are only two bolts on the whole route although there are a few spots for small cams and tcu's if you look hard enough. The crux is a little bit obove the second bolt and then you run it out to the chains.

Location

to the right of For a Rocker and left of Blades of Steel.

Protection

two bolts, two bolt anchor (same as For a rocker)

Photos

Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
There are two fixed wires sticking out low. I believe they are before the first bolt and after the first bolt. One is definately a large head placed in a small crack. I was told these are both from the first ascent before the bolts were added and were the only pro! You can top rope this after climbing For A Rocker. Aug 28, 2007
I did the FA of this route with Carl Murray around 1990 or so. I used the copperheads that someone else had placed plus a couple of TCUs. I toproped the climb twice (but fell both times) before giving it a go on the lead. I thought the boulder problem start was the crux and rated that 5.12. I was happy when Tony put the bolts in as it is really a nice climb - although the shade tree has fallen down now. Feb 27, 2015
Sam Dempsey
  5.12a R
Sam Dempsey  
  5.12a R
For those wanting to lead this on gear like Terry, where the first old copperhead used to be (it was removed, since half the wires were rusted and broken) you can place two .1 X1 cams. The next placement was where the other head used to be (also removed since better clean gear could be used) was a #4 RP and a good green alien clipped together. From there it's the same as with the bolts... Bring a crash pad and don't fall. Apr 15, 2018