Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,815 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007

You & This Route

15 Opinions

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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details


Sustained climbing and sometimes slick at the begining if it has been raining. Apparently there is a small TCU placement up high on the route, but I've never seen it. I've only toproped it, but it looked very well bolted. This is one of my (and Tony Mayse's) favorite refuge climbs!

Seems almost like 2 distinct climbs. Starts out with slopey liebacks and strenous (for me) underclings then goes to classic edging crimpers for the second half.


Immediately left and uphill of "Rap Bolters from Hell"


Good Bolts. 2 bolt anchor at top. Can double rap down.


Boulder, CO
MauryB   Boulder, CO
The cam placement (yellow alien size) is after the final bolt in the horizontal, flaring crack that is somewhat of a resting hold. It is not entirely necessary, but if you skip it you do get a little ways above that last bolt for the final crux. Jul 9, 2007
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
-According to Tony Mayse, the first ascent was Duane Raleigh and he originally led this thing on gear, which is both astounding and terrifying.

-For the piece above the last bolt, I placed an X4 .3/.4

-The feet aren't "sometimes slick if it's been raining." They are slick as snot even when it's dry as dirt.

-This is a very safely bolted route for the Wichitas. I fell all over it. I look forward to working for the send. Jan 19, 2015
Duane's ascent was totally sick. He gave Tony Wilson permission to bolt it and IMO created a fantastic route. I always carried a #2 or #3 TCU for that last part because it would be terrifying to fall there on the last bolt!! Feb 27, 2015
Cameron Casey
Las Vegas
Cameron Casey   Las Vegas
I took 3 falls from above the last bolt on the final slabby section. The fall was 100% clean and I walked away unscathed. It was slightly unnerving, but your really don't need supplemental gear up there. Feb 7, 2016