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Routes in Lost Dome

Baptist on the Rampage S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Blades of Steel S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Come and Get Your Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack a Lo Lo T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Drop Dead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dutchmen, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Fear of the Right T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
For A Rocker T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hand Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jack's Slap S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Rites T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Lost My Religion T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Made in the Shade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
OU Mountaineers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Papa Was a Rolling Stone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rap Bolters from Hell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slime of the Century S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steep Show T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thankful Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Tied to the Whipping Post S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
UnNamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,716 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007
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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Sustained climbing and sometimes slick at the begining if it has been raining. Apparently there is a small TCU placement up high on the route, but I've never seen it. I've only toproped it, but it looked very well bolted. This is one of my (and Tony Mayse's) favorite refuge climbs!

Seems almost like 2 distinct climbs. Starts out with slopey liebacks and strenous (for me) underclings then goes to classic edging crimpers for the second half.

Location

Immediately left and uphill of "Rap Bolters from Hell"

Protection

Good Bolts. 2 bolt anchor at top. Can double rap down.

Photos

MauryB
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
MauryB   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
The cam placement (yellow alien size) is after the final bolt in the horizontal, flaring crack that is somewhat of a resting hold. It is not entirely necessary, but if you skip it you do get a little ways above that last bolt for the final crux. Jul 9, 2007
Creed Archibald
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11+
Creed Archibald   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11+
-According to Tony Mayse, the first ascent was Duane Raleigh and he originally led this thing on gear, which is both astounding and terrifying.

-For the piece above the last bolt, I placed an X4 .3/.4

-The feet aren't "sometimes slick if it's been raining." They are slick as snot even when it's dry as dirt.

-This is a very safely bolted route for the Wichitas. I fell all over it. I look forward to working for the send. Jan 19, 2015
Duane's ascent was totally sick. He gave Tony Wilson permission to bolt it and IMO created a fantastic route. I always carried a #2 or #3 TCU for that last part because it would be terrifying to fall there on the last bolt!! Feb 27, 2015
Cameron Casey
Las Vegas
  5.11+
Cameron Casey   Las Vegas
  5.11+
I took 3 falls from above the last bolt on the final slabby section. The fall was 100% clean and I walked away unscathed. It was slightly unnerving, but your really don't need supplemental gear up there. Feb 7, 2016

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