Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Larry Fuson?
Page Views: 1,980 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

There is an old pin that was placed at the crux mantle move. Try not to test it since it was placed circa 1980. I've seen falls on it and it seems fine though. After the mantle move it is easy climbing. Make trad belay once you enter the alcove. I believe it takes medium / small cams. 2nd pitch: climb out of alcove onto face or chimney up and out higher up. Almost no pro on 2nd pitch, but you'd fall into the crack and not off the rock so its not really dangerous. Finish on top of a boulder after coming out of the alcove at a two bolt anchor.

Location

Climbs most obvious crack into a chimney on the same face and to the right of "Tied to the Whipping Post".

Protection

Normal Refuge rack. One fixed pin on 1st pitch below the mantel crux. Finish at the 2 bolt anchor with rap ring ontop of a small boulder up and left after the chimney. Takes 2 ropes to double down to the ground or as use the Rap Bolters from Hell station as the intermediate.
Andrew Tower
San Francisco
  5.8+
Andrew Tower   San Francisco
  5.8+
or you can always rap to the the anchors for Rap Bolters and Whipping post, clip in and then rap again. Jul 2, 2007
Les Malan
  5.8+
Les Malan  
  5.8+
It is possible to double rap down on a 60m rope. You just have to swing out wide to climber's left and come down by the tree near Slime of the Century. Simul-rap is probably the best option to maximize rope stretch. I did it yesterday and it's very convenient. Jan 22, 2012
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The pin will hold a 10-12 foot fall. I "tested" it yesterday. This can also be climbed as one long pitch. Rope drag isn't bad because there is almost no gear on P2. We also rapped from the P2 anchor to the ground with a 60 meter rope. It was just long enough. Dec 16, 2012
Drew Nevius
Oklahoma
  5.8+ R
Drew Nevius   Oklahoma  
  5.8+ R
Fun climb. I wish there were a bolted anchor at the start of the wide crack. If it were out right on the arete, it could serve to TR the arete on the left side of the big alcolve. Be warned that the upper chimney is not easily protectable (maybe better if you have still have 3 and 4 Camalots), so this isn't a beginner lead. Bring your lead head! Jan 2, 2017