Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Larry Fuson?
Page Views: 2,185 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

There is an old pin that was placed at the crux mantle move. Try not to test it since it was placed circa 1980. I've seen falls on it and it seems fine though. After the mantle move it is easy climbing. Make trad belay once you enter the alcove. I believe it takes medium / small cams. 2nd pitch: climb out of alcove onto face or chimney up and out higher up. Almost no pro on 2nd pitch, but you'd fall into the crack and not off the rock so its not really dangerous. Finish on top of a boulder after coming out of the alcove at a two bolt anchor.

Location

Climbs most obvious crack into a chimney on the same face and to the right of "Tied to the Whipping Post".

Protection

Normal Refuge rack. One bolt (previously a fixed pin) on 1st pitch below the mantel crux. Finish at the 2 bolt anchor with rap ring ontop of a small boulder up and left after the chimney. Takes 2 ropes to double down to the ground or as use the Rap Bolters from Hell station as the intermediate.

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