Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tony and Lori Maze
Page Views: 1,759 total · 12/month
Shared By: Daniel S on May 22, 2007
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

A great combination of boulder problem (5.11 start) into a small alcove and then crack that fades away to face climbing near the top. Boulder the start, lay back the crack using your fingers and place pro quickly. Once high enough, clip the bolts and face climb on thin friction climbing as the route turns less steep.

Location

First route on the South Face of Lost Dome. Just left around the corner from For a Rocker.

Protection

Three quick draws for the three bolts up high, nuts, and cams to 2 inches. Use the belay Anchor of For a Rocker to double rap down.

Photos

Andrew Tower
San Francisco
  5.10b
Andrew Tower   San Francisco
  5.10b
There are three bolts up high not two so bring three draws not two. Jul 1, 2007
Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
Andy Chasteen   Oklahoma City, OK
Great Route! Boulder start, gear placements, clip bolts, slabby top out; bomber, sharp rock. Solid line. Watch out for the tree branch getting caught on your chalk bag though.... Jan 24, 2008