Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,832 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

The crux is definitely the start. Its probably 5.10 face or 5.10 undercling / liebacks. Really not bad, just boulder problemy. Start about 8' right of the corner crack and move up left to gain the crack. Have someone spot you. You gain a great stance and can plug in 2 cams to start off the crack.

Location

SE corner of Lost Dome. Immediately right of Crack-a-lo-lo and around the corner. Start on the E. face and the crack will wind you around the corner. 2 bolt anchor at top (shared with Crack-a-lo-lo). Can double rap.

Protection

Normal refuge trad (nothing bigger than 1 #3 camalot). Can do with all cams easily.

Photos

Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
  5.9
Andy Chasteen   Oklahoma City, OK
  5.9
The beginning is more of a mental crux than anything. Fairly casual climbing to the crack, just high off the ground. I found that a .4 or .5 works very well in the first finger slot once you get into the crack.....or maybe that was a yellow C3?
Killer jams once you get a couple feet into the crack. Good route to learn cracks. Jan 28, 2008
Jeremy Bauman
Lakewood, CO
  5.9 PG13
Jeremy Bauman   Lakewood, CO
  5.9 PG13
When we did this we continued past the belay and scrambled around to a big 5.6 crack (To the right of the crack there is some bolted route) and followed it to the Larry's Folly anchors where we met the other climbers of our group and were able to use both of our ropes to get down. Jun 30, 2011
I did the FA with Carl Murray back in the 1980s. I named it for the song that Carl was singing all day. Feb 27, 2015