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Routes in Lost Dome

Baptist on the Rampage S,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Blades of Steel S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Come and Get Your Love S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crack a Lo Lo T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Drop Dead T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dutchmen, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Fear of the Right T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
For A Rocker T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hand Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jack's Slap S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Rites T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Lost My Religion T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Made in the Shade S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
OU Mountaineers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Papa Was a Rolling Stone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rap Bolters from Hell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slime of the Century S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steep Show T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thankful Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Tied to the Whipping Post S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
UnNamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: F.A. Keith Egan, Mark Johnson (1981)
Page Views: 663 total, 5/month
Shared By: Daniel S on Feb 6, 2007
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This area is designated as Charon Details
Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

The route has two cruxes that stump most people (that I've climbed with). First is getting onto the steeply sloping ramp just after starting the climb. You basically have to slither yourself onto it until you grab a great hold, otherwise be spit off. The second crux is the mantel move off the horn that forms a small roof (that is protected by slinging the horn). Blow this mantel and find yourself falling backwards and knocking your head on the ramp below. The rest of the climb is strait forward consisting of moderate crack climbing with some lay-back moves and a short chimney section to top out. The route protects really well with the exception of the mantle move where you whish you could put a piece above you.

Location

Route is located Right and up hill of Blades of Steel on the ENE corner of Lost Dome. Double rappel with two 50 m ropes.

Protection

Cams, nuts, hexes, tri-cams, and a four foot sling to sling the horn. Sling the route well or face bad rope drag. Shares 2 bolt anchors with baptist on a rampage.

Photos

It has just been brought to my attention that the current Oklahoma Select 2010 only has quickdraws for gear beta on this route? The 2004 Ok Select called for cams to #4. Not sure how this beta was omitted in the current guide.

~Tony Mayse Jul 15, 2012
Jon McCartie
Edmond, OK
  5.10b PG13
Jon McCartie   Edmond, OK
  5.10b PG13
A yellow C3 cam fits perfectly inside the horn. I slung it first, then realized the C3 would fit, which allowed for that move to be a little better protected. Oct 17, 2010
Jon McCartie
Edmond, OK
  5.10b PG13
Jon McCartie   Edmond, OK
  5.10b PG13
I forgot a #4 Camalot at the end of the lieback section (just before the chimney) on Saturday, October 16, 2010.

If anyone grabs it, let me know. Much thanks. Oct 17, 2010