Avg: 2.1 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|FA:||F.A. Keith Egan, Mark Johnson (1981)|
|Page Views:||719 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Daniel S on Feb 6, 2007|
Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
The route has two cruxes that stump most people (that I've climbed with). First is getting onto the steeply sloping ramp just after starting the climb. You basically have to slither yourself onto it until you grab a great hold, otherwise be spit off. The second crux is the mantel move off the horn that forms a small roof (that is protected by slinging the horn). Blow this mantel and find yourself falling backwards and knocking your head on the ramp below. The rest of the climb is strait forward consisting of moderate crack climbing with some lay-back moves and a short chimney section to top out. The route protects really well with the exception of the mantle move where you whish you could put a piece above you.
Route is located Right and up hill of Blades of Steel on the ENE corner of Lost Dome. Double rappel with two 50 m ropes.