Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: F.A. Keith Egan, Mark Johnson (1981)
Page Views: 719 total · 5/month
Shared By: Daniel S on Feb 6, 2007
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

The route has two cruxes that stump most people (that I've climbed with). First is getting onto the steeply sloping ramp just after starting the climb. You basically have to slither yourself onto it until you grab a great hold, otherwise be spit off. The second crux is the mantel move off the horn that forms a small roof (that is protected by slinging the horn). Blow this mantel and find yourself falling backwards and knocking your head on the ramp below. The rest of the climb is strait forward consisting of moderate crack climbing with some lay-back moves and a short chimney section to top out. The route protects really well with the exception of the mantle move where you whish you could put a piece above you.

Location

Route is located Right and up hill of Blades of Steel on the ENE corner of Lost Dome. Double rappel with two 50 m ropes.

Protection

Cams, nuts, hexes, tri-cams, and a four foot sling to sling the horn. Sling the route well or face bad rope drag. Shares 2 bolt anchors with baptist on a rampage.

Photos

Jon McCartie
Sandpoint, ID
  5.10b PG13
Jon McCartie   Sandpoint, ID
  5.10b PG13
I forgot a #4 Camalot at the end of the lieback section (just before the chimney) on Saturday, October 16, 2010.

If anyone grabs it, let me know. Much thanks. Oct 17, 2010
Jon McCartie
Sandpoint, ID
  5.10b PG13
Jon McCartie   Sandpoint, ID
  5.10b PG13
A yellow C3 cam fits perfectly inside the horn. I slung it first, then realized the C3 would fit, which allowed for that move to be a little better protected. Oct 17, 2010
It has just been brought to my attention that the current Oklahoma Select 2010 only has quickdraws for gear beta on this route? The 2004 Ok Select called for cams to #4. Not sure how this beta was omitted in the current guide.

~Tony Mayse Jul 15, 2012