Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,029 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route

12 Opinions

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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details


Not so well protected sport route. Bolts are good. Thin moves that will require a little thinking.


On E. side of Lost Dome. Right ~50' of "For A Rocker" and "Made in the Shade" slightly uphill.


Quickdraws, 3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor at top. Can rap down w/ a single 50m rope.


jcomp   OKC, OK
3 bolts. According to Steve the route originally had 1 bolt. Must of been a hell of a stout route! It is hard and thin with 3 bolts. Jun 14, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
Yeah, this route description says that the route is well protected with the three bolts, however, that might be true if you stick clip the first two bolts as the description writer did. The route may not be runout per se, but it has a certain spicey quality to it. Jul 1, 2007
Boulder, CO
  5.10c/d PG13
MauryB   Boulder, CO
  5.10c/d PG13
Surprising that I almost decked, since it's so well protected. Jul 30, 2007
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
I changed the description since the consensus is that the bolts are not adequately spaced. Jul 31, 2007
Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
Andy Chasteen   Oklahoma City, OK
Crux comes after the first bolt, but once you get to the point of clipping the second bolt you are on fairly solid ground, albeit you might have a decent case of Elvis Leg going. Ground fall would probably never happen unless you have a dozing belayer. Hitting the tree, on the other hand, is a possibility. Jan 28, 2008
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
It isn't a deck if you blow the 2nd bolt, but it will put you back down into the tree with your belayer. Watched my buddy deck into his finace this past weekend. Stick clipped the 2nd. Originally the crack had some copper heads beat into it, which only remnants remain. May 7, 2008
I dig this route. Fun slab moves, and gets the heart racing. Oct 31, 2008
The tree that was once behind the route is now gone due to the fire last year (2011). The route did have copper heads protecting the upper moves, bolts were placed to replace the old heads and installed at pretty much the same height as the heads as not to change the nature of the climbing. Not a sport route. Jan 16, 2012
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
Clipping the second bolt is definitely exciting, but for me the crux was right above the first bolt. It was a very small safe fall. Mar 1, 2014
Chase Webb
Little Rock, AR
Chase Webb   Little Rock, AR
I'm a little over 200lbs and slipped off just below the second bolt and did not deck. I don't think anyone would deck unless they slipped while pulling out rope to clip. Nov 29, 2014