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Areas in Charon's Gardens

Big Whiskey 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Cedar Rock 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Crab Eyes 20 / 5 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 29
Crank Boulder 3 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Desperate Dome (Desperate Reality Cliff) 8 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Desperate Reality Cliff Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Echo Dome 4 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Elk Mountain Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elk Slabs 14 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 14
Hidden Wall 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Lost Dome 14 / 12 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Lost Dome Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Mt. Lincoln 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Nemo's Wall 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Parking Area Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Pear and Apple 3 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Pear and Apple (Bouldering) 0 / 0 / 0 / 30 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30
Secret Agent Dome 3 / 1 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Signpost Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Steak Dinner Area 0 / 0 / 12 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Tiny Bubbles 2 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Treasure Cove 19 / 14 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 25
Wapiti Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
West Horizon Pass 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 1,837 ft
GPS: 34.724, -98.745 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 110,853 total · 971/month
Shared By: J C Wilks on May 8, 2009
Admins:
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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details
Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details

Description

The topography of Charon's Gardens can be a complex maze with small outcrops which can obscure features that are relatively near. There are good to fair trails leading to the major destinations. These areas include Tiny Bubbles, Pear & Apple, Treasure Cove, Elk Slabs and Crab Eyes, but even then, once you are close there can be a bit of route finding to get to the base of the actual climbs.

There are several areas with no maintained trail leading to them. Pick up a USGS map, a condensed version of the Refuge from the Visitor Center or print out a satellite image to aid you in finding these places on and around Mt. Lincoln, West Horizon Pass, Sunset Peak/Big Whiskey and other more obscure crags. The advantage of these areas is that you will avoid the crowds at the Narrows and Mt Scott.

The original 1980 book by Duane Raleigh and Bill Thomas 'Southern Exposure - A Climber's Guide to Oklahoma' simply states: "CHARON'S GARDENS - To the west of Elk Mt. is a rugged wilderness area known as Charons Gardens. Throughout this area there are many excellent one pitch and shorter crack climbs. These can be difficult to locate and no listing of the specific routes will be given.

Climbing is year 'round but you will want to avoid the roasting south facing cliffs in summer and the shady north facing cliffs in winter. Encounters with wildlife can be sudden. Watch out especially for rattle snakes, elk and rogue bison bulls.

There is a designated camping section within Charon's Gardens. You must backpack in a couple of miles and the camping is primitive. Check at the Visitor Center for permits.

Getting There

Residing on the far southwestern end of the Refuge, there are two main parking lots for this large area and a few pull-outs in between. Drive west on 49 to the north, Sunset Pool Parking which provides access to most of the major climbing areas. Off of the Indiahoma Rd is the south parking lot at Treasure Lake. This is the best point to start in to areas such as Panther Canyon, West Horizon Pass and Mt Lincoln. It's also a good way in to Elk Slabs. This lot has had high incidences of break-ins from time to time so keep your valuables with you or hidden if you must leave them in the vehicle.

246 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Charon's Gardens

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6 7A
 5
The Oklahoma Panhandler
Boulder
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 64
Great Expectations
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
 23
Water Streak
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 56
Worm Hole
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 34
Little Sherman Creature Crack
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 31
Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly)
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Frosted Flakes
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 40
Ladybugs and Gentlemen
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 40
Come and Get Your Love
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 25
Power Series
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Slime of the Century
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 14
Ra
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Rap Bolters from Hell
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Lost My Religion
Trad, Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Tied to the Whipping Post
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Oklahoma Panhandler Crab Eyes > Crab Eyes Bouldering
 5
V6 7A Boulder
Great Expectations Elk Slabs
 64
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Water Streak Elk Slabs
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad 2 pitches
Worm Hole Echo Dome
 56
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Little Sherman Creature Crack Echo Dome
 34
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's… Lost Dome
 31
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Frosted Flakes Echo Dome
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ladybugs and Gentlemen Echo Dome
 40
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Come and Get Your Love Lost Dome
 40
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Power Series Crab Eyes > E Face
 25
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Slime of the Century Lost Dome
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Ra Crab Eyes > E Face
 14
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Rap Bolters from Hell Lost Dome
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Lost My Religion Lost Dome
 7
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Tied to the Whipping Post Lost Dome
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Charon's Gardens »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Cfresh
Barrington il
Cfresh   Barrington il
Hey guys goin to be coming out do do some backcountry camping and mainly bouldering I'm really excited to head this way but I'm curious r there any sections that still need devolving as for bouldering? I love setting new routes lmk I'm gonna definitely be on the hunt and made my self a pretty cool handwritten guide book of all the info that's on here but as always I'm sure there are more climbs to be found Sep 29, 2015
Preston Pettigrew
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Preston Pettigrew   Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
I found two old bolted lines on the south face of Bat Cave Mountain, just east of the bat cave itself, that look pretty old, one of the anchor bolts was a very rusted rivet style bolt. Does anybody have any info on these climbs? Feb 11, 2016
Henry Holub
Altus, Ok
Henry Holub   Altus, Ok
Here you go Preston- there's a couple of paragraphs about Bat Cave Mountain in this early guide book. It doesn't name any of the routes, but it might be helpful.

fusionfortyseven.com/Guides… Jun 5, 2016

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