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|Shared By:||Steve Marr on Nov 6, 2006|
Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Great Expectations climbs the prominent crack just to the left of the tiered dihedral system. Climb the slab using the crack for protection until the crack disappears. Head up and right to another lone tree and a two bolt rap anchor located on the wall. The route protects well all the way to the anchors bring a good assortment of stoppers and cams. You can either rappel from the anchors with two ropes or continue up a second easy pitch. The second pitch climbs the easy flake above the anchors to a headwall. At the headwall, traverse (walk is probably a better description) left to the anchors on the second pitch of Water Streak. This second pitch is pretty short and very easy. Long slings will reduce some of the rope drag caused by the abrupt traverse at the base of the headwall. Even with two ropes, be prepared for a little easy down climbing at the bottom.
Finding the start of the route is almost as interesting as the climbing. Once you hit the base of the slabs, trend right looking for a ramp that leads to a tree higher up. Belay from the tree.