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Routes in Elk Slabs

"Black Man's Jump" T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
(Other) Dihedral, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Aid Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Arching Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Buns Up T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Buttress Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Eliminator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Great Expectations T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Nike Rout T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Face (AKA Easy Face) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Sundeck, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Tree Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Water Streak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Webb, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kurt Shier
Page Views: 4,083 total, 31/month
Shared By: Adam Peters on Jan 8, 2007
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This area is designated as Charon Details
Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

On the Left side of Elk Slabs, climb up through a small roof where you can get some gear. Step up and continue up the 'water streak' without pro until you reach the two bolt anchor. Belay from here and then head up and to the left.

Protection

gear up to 3" and a few QD's
Henry Holub
Altus, Ok
 
Henry Holub   Altus, Ok
 
About 15 feet off the ground is a flat hold on the top of a rock that is detaching from the face. Pull down, not out. It ends up being a great foot placement just below the shelf/overlap Apr 22, 2016
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
Not to diminish the head games this route can play on lead. Once you turn onto the slab section, it's easy 5.5-6 climbing to the chains. The X is warranted, but unless your slab technique is near zero, you shouldn't be intimidated by this rewarding lead. May 17, 2012
Jon Wood
  5.7 X
Jon Wood  
  5.7 X
  • **The R Rated Version***
We were a little sketched out about leading this x rated route with out having seen it up close. So we climbed great expectations and rapped down it after reaching the anchors for it. We discovered it is possible to top rope the first pitch with a 60 meter rope. Climb both pitches of Great Expectations or the Dihedral. Rap down to the first set of anchors, clip in, and set it up. We used standard over the shoulder slings and a few ovals. Gave us some piece of mind our first time up. There is some polish on some of the footholds. It's not a hard route, but very nervy on lead. The second pitch is run out to, but there is a place for a piece about twenty feet from the top where you can put a piece in. I found a great spot for a green tri-cam used as a chock. It's pretty low angle at this point, but I like to feel safe. There's a video on my facebook page if you want to take a look. leftyonenut@hotmail.com May 8, 2012
Mike Harris DFW
DFW, Texas
Mike Harris DFW   DFW, Texas
The route description says 120' climb. That is just the first pitch. Which, at that point leaves you in the middle of the slab. Add about another 110' +/- for the second pitch. From the top, rap with two 60m ropes and angle for a ledge to the right then down climb. Mar 28, 2011
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
First Ascent is listed as Kurt Shier and party. Dec 17, 2007