This area is designated as Charon
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access is always an issue here.
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Left facing slightly overhanging corner directly up from second belay station of the "Water Streak". Steep Lay back moves get you to the lip. Heel hook over the right side of the lip and grab a bomber hold on the left side of lip. Flop yourself over the lip (crux) and continue up to the belay station (trad). Very committing climb with exposure that turns many away. But lots of fun when you've done it.
Rout Starts directly above the second belay station of the "Water Streak". Often considered the third pitch of water streak. After belly flopping over the lip, continue up the large crack (5.0 to high 4th class) until you reach a horizontal crack on the right intersecting the vertical crack. Use the horizontal crack to set up Belay (1 to 2.5 inch cams or hexes) or set up sketchy belay just to the right of the belly flop over the lip. From the belay, traverse right along the horizontal crack until it runs out, then fourth class it to the gully. Follow the gully down about 130 feet and look for belay station for the Tree Rout on the wall on the left (when facing down hill) side. Use two ropes to rappel down. Or, from the Buns Up Trad belay station, traverse left (fourth class) to a boulder field-gully and scramble down.