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Routes in Echo Dome

Crack Pipe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Finger Licken T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Forgetful Me T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Freestyle TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Frosted Flakes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hive, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ladybugs and Gentlemen S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Little Sherman Creature Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Worm Hole S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 1,812 ft
GPS: 34.726, -98.735 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 9,277 total, 70/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007
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Description

Shady morning. Full sun afternoon. Good winter wall. Sometimes crowded (3 groups). Excellent rock quality. Pull DOWN not out on flakes. They are solid down, possibly not out.
This area is designated as Charon Details
Access is always an issue here. Details

Getting There

Park in Sunset parking lot and take the trail to Crab Eyes. Follow the trail west and before the long plateau to Crab Eyes hang a left at a rock cairn / split in the trail and follow a dry creek bed. You will then see the dome on your left.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Echo Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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The approach directions on here can be pretty tricky to follow. The area is covered in granite so finding a wall is not the simplest thing to do... To approach Echo Dome take the Sunset turn off and drive to end of the street to park. Follow the trail over the last bridge (not the first couple trail heads you see) and then once on the trail take the "backcountry camping" sign at the fork (maybe 10 minutes in?). Keep following trail and at the second fork over the riverbed I stayed left and it worked out well. You will run into Echo Dome on your left if you stay on this trail. It might sneak up on you if you aren't looking up and left. If you find yourself below the face a short scramble will put you at the base. Mar 10, 2015
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
Not that it matters all that much.

Areas around those crags in the guidebooks have had traffic up pretty much everything. Unless you are clearing lots of brush ( like the new traverse on Crab Eyes), it has probably been done.

That said, there is always the exception. Routes at that grade might be passed over, being too easy to attract attention or a qualified climber. So, claim you first ascent, name the route, and post it up. If someone else has knocked it out already, or named it, they will speak up, but until then, congrats on the F.A. Sep 25, 2008
Anybody own a guide book that lists all the routes on this wall (a book other than Oklahoma Select?) I think I may have had an FA on this wall. There is a wide crack about 20-30ft right of Worm Hole. It starts off with a face with a small crack to protect then goes up to a wide crack that narrows towards the top, then tops out about half way up the dome and ends with a gully full of boulders to the top. It could have been climbed before, but it was pretty chossy, but could be cleaned for sure. I thought it was a fun climb and would be great for Trad n00bs like myself. I would say the route goes at 5.5-5.6. Still trying to think of a name for it though (that is if I truly got the FA). Apr 14, 2008

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