Type: Trad, 650 ft
FA: Dylan Warren
Page Views: 4,871 total · 33/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


The clean, black left-facing corner just opposite the Schoolmaster.


A few 0.5 Camalots and blue TCU's, but mostly 0.4 Camalots/yellow TCU's (6 or 7 will sew it up).


Ryan Curry  
This is the best climb I've done at The Wall. I found the big piece recommended to be unnecessary. Light is right on this awesome route. Jun 7, 2008
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Totally amazing climb. You will learn if you have your first knuckle layback technique down or not. May 1, 2009
Ol Toby
Ol Toby   CA
Superb shortie route. I found 4-5 orange metolius protected the crack above the rest, while yellow were slightly tipped. Mar 29, 2010
This route is too locker to be 5.12.....i sent it onsight after 7 other pitches.....continous but more like 11c....Dancing Queen is harder for sure...great, doable OW though Oct 22, 2011
Kevin DB
Kevin DB  
With good man-size fingers and a little stemming it feels easier than 12-, still a pump fest. Nov 7, 2012
FA.Dylan Warren Sep 4, 2014
AL .
AL .   UT
I found orange metolius and .4's to be much safer than the yellow metolius Apr 10, 2017
I would take orange metolius over the tipped out .4's. Great route. Nov 27, 2017
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
I placed 6 .5, 3 .4 and 1 .3 at the bottom. Takes mostly .5 in my experience. Classic IC endurance. Varied climbing down low, guns up high. Dec 21, 2018