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Routes in The Wall

Big Lady T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Papa Bear T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Damage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breathe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Circling Sky T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Comfortably Numb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dancing Queen T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirty Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Woman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eat Your Pudding T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Falcon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fearless T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Freebird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Cruel World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great Gig in the Sky, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jasmin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Judge, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Just a Brick... T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Learning to Fly T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mama Mia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Money T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pigs On The Wing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Power Nap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Run Like Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolmaster, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 PG13
Sorrow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trial, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Offwidth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Which One's Pink? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggum's One aka Ralph's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Beer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Wish You Were Here T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 160 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Sam Lightner and Josh Gross
Page Views: 2,790 total, 21/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 3, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The Schoolmaster is what we named the tower at the very northwest end of The Wall. The summit of this tower is roughly the size of an ironing board. The start is found between the tower and the wall. Getting up on either side of the tower requires a little fourth class on loose ground.
P1 5.9 hands, finger, and then a chimney. Decent gear, but don't fall. It ends on a large ledge with good anchors.
P2 goes up the obvious arete. Its best approached as a "French Free" climb with 5.10 moves between good bolts. A sling to stand in at a couple of the bolts will be useful, but a solid 5.10 Indian Creek climber should be fine without full-on aiders. Two boulder problems make this a very difficult endeavor to free. Also, keep in mind there are loose, giant blocks you have to contend with as it is the desert! The stand-up at the summit is a dizzying move. Despite the 5.10, A0 rating, this is not a giveaway.

Location

The obvious tower as you come up the trail to The Wall. Two raps on a 70 meter rope will reach the ground. A 60 may reach, but it will be close.
Its labelled #1 in the picture.

Protection

A few hand and finger pieces for the start, then maybe a #5 in the back of the chimney. You need about a dozen quickdraws for the last pitch.
Fun tower and a great way to end a day at the wall. The starting pitch has two options: squeeze chimney from the get-go or 20 feet of a slanting hand to finger crack to get to the squeeze. We chose the squeeze, which was quite enjoyable. A #1 behind a chockstone provides some psychological pro to get into the squeeze, and then 35 feet of unprotected chimney climbing. However, it is a perfect squeeze, albeit a bit tight at the start, so you aren't going to fall out. Larger folks may have a hard time getting in. Rack for this option is singles of #1 and #3 and two #4s. Mar 6, 2017
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+ A0 R
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9+ A0 R
Desert tower adventure at it's finest!! The first pitch could be downright terrifying for someone unaccustomed to old-school 5.9+ sandstone. Heads up: after stocking the paper-thin flake with TCUs, make damn sure that you don't botch the tenuous transition into the chimney. On that note, there would be potentially grave consequences for somehow blowing the subsequent 20 feet of unprotected 5.8 squeeze. The upper part of the chimney, with its thick coating of birdshit, protects fine with camalot size 1-3, although big pieces would work too. The summit pitch is a blast (no matter how you do it) and the ironing-board summit totally worth it! Oct 10, 2016
Mike, JW nice job! Apr 15, 2012
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
 
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
 
Seriously nice job JW! Apr 14, 2012
Mike Pennings and I free climbed this route at .12+. Crux pitch involves two height dependent boulder problems seperated by a no-hands rest on a diving board feature. The second crux is the harder of the two. Pretty damn fun route, and a nice alternative when your fingers hurt at just the thought of actual Indian Creek climbing! Apr 14, 2012
Hey Sam,
I climbed this tower a few days ago and had a blast! I loved the way you bolted the top part as it kept the excitement super high, instead of a simple bolt ladder. That summit has to be one of the cooler desert tower summits I've ever stood up on. I had to wait about 5 minutes for a break in the wind to be able to do so without getting blown off. I felt like I was riding a surfboard on the summit!!!

I think that you could do the upper pitch with slings, but I took one aider and it was perfect and my partner had one aider also.
For some reason it took a few minutes to figure out which crack to climb in the back. Maybe in the description you could say that there are two cracks back there, an offwidth and then a crack to the right that arches left and allows access to the upper part of the offwidth.
My climbing buddy loved the 1st pitch as he had to climb a little out of his comfort zone. He used cams from .5" to 3.5" for the bottom crack and then 4" to 6" for the upper chimney/offwidth.
We used a 70-meter and a 60-meter would be a little short for the last single rope rappel.
What a great tower to get the FA on, certainly a feather in anyone's cap. Mar 26, 2008