Type: Trad, Aid, 160 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Sam Lightner and Josh Gross
Page Views: 3,194 total · 20/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 3, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - now open 10/11/19 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

The Schoolmaster is what we named the tower at the very northwest end of The Wall. The summit of this tower is roughly the size of an ironing board. The start is found between the tower and the wall. Getting up on either side of the tower requires a little fourth class on loose ground.
P1 5.9 hands, finger, and then a chimney. Decent gear, but don't fall. It ends on a large ledge with good anchors.
P2 goes up the obvious arete. Its best approached as a "French Free" climb with 5.10 moves between good bolts. A sling to stand in at a couple of the bolts will be useful, but a solid 5.10 Indian Creek climber should be fine without full-on aiders. Two boulder problems make this a very difficult endeavor to free. Also, keep in mind there are loose, giant blocks you have to contend with as it is the desert! The stand-up at the summit is a dizzying move. Despite the 5.10, A0 rating, this is not a giveaway.

Location

The obvious tower as you come up the trail to The Wall. Two raps on a 70 meter rope will reach the ground. A 60 may reach, but it will be close.
Its labelled #1 in the picture.

Protection

A few hand and finger pieces for the start, then maybe a #5 in the back of the chimney. You need about a dozen quickdraws for the last pitch.

Photos