Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jay Brown
Page Views: 1,497 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Aug 31, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route is 150 yds. right of the main corner in the wall. It has a plaque (unless the smasher got to it) and starts just left of dancing queen?

Location

It starts 10'left of a .11+ on a face (dancing queen?). it has a 6' flake on the ground at the start. start in an acute corner with an overhanging section about 15' to a sustained acute hands flare corner to 2 fixes on the left wall.

Protection

cams
2-#.5, 3#1's, 2#2's 1#3

Photos

J,

I think I cleaned some BIG blocks off of this when coming down from another new route - Mama Mia - but then we ran out of time to do it. No stars? It did look a little dirty still...

Chris Kalous Nov 6, 2006
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
  5.10+
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
  5.10+
i didn't clean anything except the bottom. it has 2 rap bolts for the anchor.i wondered who else was up there, this wall is THE area , don't tell.going this wekend? 3096247 if you are.
jay Nov 12, 2007
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Good warm-up that has cleaned up nicely. Only loose for the bottom 15' then it heads into splitter Wingate. Fun working the tight-hands in the back of the flare with lots of features for the feet and hands on the left face to keep it at the grade.

one route left of Dancing Queen and 2 routes right of Brain Damage. Nov 30, 2009