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Routes in The Wall

Big Lady T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Papa Bear T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Damage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breathe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Circling Sky T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Comfortably Numb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dancing Queen T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirty Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Woman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eat Your Pudding T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Falcon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fearless T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Freebird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Cruel World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great Gig in the Sky, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jasmin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Judge, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Just a Brick... T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Learning to Fly T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mama Mia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Money T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pigs On The Wing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Power Nap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Run Like Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolmaster, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 PG13
Sorrow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trial, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Offwidth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Which One's Pink? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggum's One aka Ralph's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Beer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Wish You Were Here T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jay Brown
Page Views: 1,443 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Aug 31, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route is 150 yds. right of the main corner in the wall. It has a plaque (unless the smasher got to it) and starts just left of dancing queen?

Location

It starts 10'left of a .11+ on a face (dancing queen?). it has a 6' flake on the ground at the start. start in an acute corner with an overhanging section about 15' to a sustained acute hands flare corner to 2 fixes on the left wall.

Protection

cams
2-#.5, 3#1's, 2#2's 1#3

Photos

SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Good warm-up that has cleaned up nicely. Only loose for the bottom 15' then it heads into splitter Wingate. Fun working the tight-hands in the back of the flare with lots of features for the feet and hands on the left face to keep it at the grade.

one route left of Dancing Queen and 2 routes right of Brain Damage. Nov 30, 2009
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
 
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
 
i didn't clean anything except the bottom. it has 2 rap bolts for the anchor.i wondered who else was up there, this wall is THE area , don't tell.going this wekend? 3096247 if you are.
jay Nov 12, 2007
J,

I think I cleaned some BIG blocks off of this when coming down from another new route - Mama Mia - but then we ran out of time to do it. No stars? It did look a little dirty still...

Chris Kalous Nov 6, 2006