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Routes in The Wall

Big Lady T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Papa Bear T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Damage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breathe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Circling Sky T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Comfortably Numb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dancing Queen T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirty Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Woman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eat Your Pudding T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Falcon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fearless T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Freebird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Cruel World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great Gig in the Sky, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jasmin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Judge, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Just a Brick... T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Learning to Fly T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mama Mia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Money T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pigs On The Wing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Power Nap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Run Like Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolmaster, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 PG13
Sorrow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trial, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Offwidth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Which One's Pink? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggum's One aka Ralph's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Beer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Wish You Were Here T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dylan Warren
Page Views: 1,943 total, 14/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Brain Damage is around the corner to the right of the main alcove of the Wall. It takes an awkward changing-corners crack through some wide pods and up a final stretch of nice thin-hands liebacking.

Protection

An assortment of gear with many #1 Camalots. A #4.5 (#5 C4) Camalot is helpful.

Photos

mike1  
I did this last weekend and found it to be a great route (3 to 4 stars). It has variety and the off-width section is reasonable because of a few edges and hand jams in back. I agree with person who posted it as straight 5.11. It is not 5.10 unless you have very small hands. Oct 31, 2017
FA. Dylan Warren Sep 4, 2014
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
if i remember right, there are a fair number of face hold for the feet that keep it pretty reasonable though. good, varied route. Dec 1, 2009
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Definitely 5.11 unless #2 Friends are a hand jam for you. Heavy on the .75 BD, #2 Friend and #1 BD. Don't leave behind the #4, and #5 BD's either or you will be pissed in the offwidth. Can be done with a single 70 meter rope. Solid route with lots of variety. Nov 30, 2009
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
I used a 4.5 Camalot (new #5 would also work) for the bottom. I also used a #3.5 and a #4 higher up...otherwise it was all #2's, and #3's. There are several other wide pods to work through. You will definitely need two ropes to TR or rap this route. We were able to pass the knot while the follower was resting on the big ledge 1/3 the way up. Apr 30, 2009