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Routes in CLOSED FOR RAPTORS - The Wall
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Big Lady T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Big Papa Bear T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brain Damage T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Breathe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Circling Sky T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Comfortably Numb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dancing Queen T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dirty Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Woman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dogs of War T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eat Your Pudding T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Falcon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fearless T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Freebird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Goodbye Cruel World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Great Gig in the Sky, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Heinous 'Cuz They Anus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Jasmin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Judge, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Just a Brick... T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Learning to Fly T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Lovely Day T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mama Mia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Money T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Outside the Wall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Pigs On The Wing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Power Nap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Run Like Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Schism T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Schoolmaster, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 PG13 |
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Sorrow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tide Pod Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tight as a Tourniquet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Trial, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 10- T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Which One's Pink? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Wiggum's One aka Ralph's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wish You Were Beer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Wish You Were Here T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Earle, Favresse |
| Page Views: | 2,483 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Mason Earle on Oct 28, 2008 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public will be asked to avoid activities in areas that the BLM has identified as having high potential or are historically known to have raptor nesting activity. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas for the protection of the nesting sites. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA), who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Melissa Wardle or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public will be asked to avoid activities in areas that the BLM has identified as having high potential or are historically known to have raptor nesting activity. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas for the protection of the nesting sites. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA), who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Melissa Wardle or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
If this route wasn't guarded by 100 feet of heinous choss, it would be a mega classic. While the dubious first pitch isn't nearly as dangerous as it was for the first ascensionists, it still has some loose bits. Tread lightly.
P1-5.10 Climb fingers in a shallow right-facing corner up to a loose ledge, then up double cracks. Continue up and left (watch for loose bits) to the top of a small pillar. 110'
P2-5.12+ Money. Climb the beautiful offset splitter to the top of some blocks (could probably be trundled, but they are HUGE). 90'
P1-5.10 Climb fingers in a shallow right-facing corner up to a loose ledge, then up double cracks. Continue up and left (watch for loose bits) to the top of a small pillar. 110'
P2-5.12+ Money. Climb the beautiful offset splitter to the top of some blocks (could probably be trundled, but they are HUGE). 90'
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