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Routes in The Wall

Big Lady T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Papa Bear T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Damage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breathe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Circling Sky T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Comfortably Numb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dancing Queen T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirty Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Woman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eat Your Pudding T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Falcon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fearless T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Freebird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Cruel World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great Gig in the Sky, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jasmin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Judge, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Just a Brick... T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Learning to Fly T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mama Mia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Money T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pigs On The Wing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Power Nap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Run Like Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolmaster, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 PG13
Sorrow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trial, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Offwidth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Which One's Pink? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggum's One aka Ralph's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Beer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Wish You Were Here T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman, Wayne Harney 11/16/11
Page Views: 1,534 total · 20/month
Shared By: Trevor Bowman on Nov 27, 2011
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Short, slabby, wavy splitter hands and fingers with some face features. You can use either the crack to the left (hands/fists) or the corner to the right--Dirty Woman-- (fingers) in the upper 1/2.
This is a pretty good route for the grade in the Creek, and another decent warm-up option for the Wall. I'd give it another star, but it's just so short...
Most of the loose bits were cleaned, but there are a couple blocks in the bottom of the left crack and some inevitable friable pieces.

Location

In the center of the Wall, in the curve of the amphitheater where the Wall transitions from South to West facing. Between the routes "Just a Brick" and "Wish You Were Beer".

Protection

(2x).3-#2 BD, chains.

Photos

Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
Ideal beginner lead, with frequent rests and lots of stemming opportunities. Oct 10, 2016
Moritz B.  
 
This is a great warm-up area since it stays shaded for quite some time. You can take a lap on the crack and a lap on the corner (9+ laybacking or small/tiny hand jams) which accounts to the length of one pitch together :-) Oct 20, 2014

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