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Routes in (CLOSED - SPRING 2018 RAPTOR NESTING) - The Wall

Big Lady T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Papa Bear T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Damage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breathe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Circling Sky T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Comfortably Numb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dancing Queen T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirty Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Woman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eat Your Pudding T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Falcon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fearless T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Freebird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Cruel World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great Gig in the Sky, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Heinous 'Cuz They Anus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jasmin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Judge, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Just a Brick... T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Learning to Fly T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mama Mia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Money T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pigs On The Wing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Power Nap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Run Like Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolmaster, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0 PG13
Sorrow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trial, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Which One's Pink? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggum's One aka Ralph's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Beer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Wish You Were Here T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Chris Kalous, Rebecca Rusch
Page Views: 3,067 total · 22/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Nov 6, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Face climby crux to varied fingers to hands and liebacking. Slightly less than vertical.

Location

This route angles up the slab just right of Run Like Hell.

Protection

#00 and #0 nice for the crux. Then varied up to 3.5". A bolt protects a slightly soft part.

Photos

Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10+
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10+
This climb protects with a varied rack, but bring 2-4 black aliens for the bottom section (small wires might also help).

If you are not psyched to lead the thin crack at the bottom, you can TR this climb by finishing Run Like Hell and then swinging/traversing over to the top of Wish You Were Here and climbing the last 20'. Just make sure to place some directionals.

Fun, thin balancy climbing with lots of face holds. Didn't seem 5.11 to me, especially compared to the 5.11 cracks here. Apr 30, 2009
cool route....not to bad cruxy bottom to 10+..fingers and face....One just needs to go for it a bit...ur through it lickity split... Oct 22, 2011
Gary N
Durango, CO
 
Gary N   Durango, CO
 
Placed two awesome nuts on this fun and interesting route. Be sure to watch the end of your ropes if using a 60m, as it just reaches the ground. Mar 19, 2013
Moritz B.  
 
Techy climbing above thin gear leads to the upper crack. The bottom was definitely a bit scary for me. It is a trade off between protection and finger locks. The bolt up high is somewhat unnecessary, it would be better to have it down low. May advice would be to bring a clip stick. A very long clip stick ;-) Oct 20, 2014

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