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Routes in The Wall

Big Lady T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Papa Bear T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brain Damage T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breathe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Circling Sky T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Comfortably Numb T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dancing Queen T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dirty Girl T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Woman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eat Your Pudding T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Falcon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fearless T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Freebird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goodbye Cruel World T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great Gig in the Sky, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jasmin T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Judge, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Just a Brick... T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Learning to Fly T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Mama Mia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Money T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pigs On The Wing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Power Nap T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Run Like Hell T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schoolmaster, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 PG13
Sorrow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Time T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trial, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown Offwidth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Which One's Pink? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Wiggum's One aka Ralph's Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Beer T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Wish You Were Here T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Josh Gross, Sam Lightner, Jason Keith, Chrissy
Page Views: 3,844 total, 29/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 3, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start on Run Like Hell and take the obvious splitter above the corner. As the crack tapers down move to the arete and face climb.

Location

Splitter crack left of Run Like Hell and Wish You Were Here. Its labelled as #3 on The Schoolmaster photo.

Protection

Friends from 3.5 down to 00 Metolious. The smaller the cams, the higher you are able to protect! Take 1 quickdraw, as well.

Photos

Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
 
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
 
Get a 9/16 wrench and tighten the bolt until it is firm. Not cranked, but about 20 lbs of force. Everyone should cary a wrench for this. They will untighten over time. May 10, 2017
dirtbag
Bellingham, WA
dirtbag   Bellingham, WA
The protection bolt and one anchor bolt were a bit wobbly. If I was qualified to replace them, I would. Any ideas how to proceed? Apr 28, 2017
Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.12-
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.12-
That bolt is in the PERFECT spot. Just high enough to be exciting, but, not so high above gear that you're shitting yourself. Nov 13, 2015
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
This route is awesome and from what I can tell is basically the poor man's Air Swedin. Feb 25, 2014
Scott Bennett
  5.12a
Scott Bennett  
  5.12a
Very enjoyable for a route with about 30' of "business". With all the rests, small gear, and tricky face climbing, it feels more like climbing in Eldo than the Creek. Thanks for putting this one up! Nov 29, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Lots of fun. Great addition to The Wall!!! The double zero c3 held two falls for me. Nov 25, 2009
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
sick one! totally enjoying the "new wave" lines at the creek. Nov 10, 2008
chris Kalous  
 
Wow. Good route, y'all. Way to go pushing the anchors as high as you could. The bolt is just right, it makes it fun instead of scary and I am all for that these days. Oct 23, 2007
Josh Janes    
 
Kudos to the FA team for discovering this sweet line! Nov 6, 2006