Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Josh Gross, Sam Lightner, Jason Keith, Chrissy
Page Views: 4,249 total · 28/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Nov 3, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: See main page for raptor info. Details

Description

Start on Run Like Hell and take the obvious splitter above the corner. As the crack tapers down move to the arete and face climb.

Location

Splitter crack left of Run Like Hell and Wish You Were Here. Its labelled as #3 on The Schoolmaster photo.

Protection

Friends from 3.5 down to 00 Metolious. The smaller the cams, the higher you are able to protect! Take 1 quickdraw, as well.

Photos

Josh Janes    
 
Kudos to the FA team for discovering this sweet line! Nov 6, 2006
chris Kalous  
 
Wow. Good route, y'all. Way to go pushing the anchors as high as you could. The bolt is just right, it makes it fun instead of scary and I am all for that these days. Oct 23, 2007
Jay 1975
Bonedale, CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale, CO
sick one! totally enjoying the "new wave" lines at the creek. Nov 10, 2008
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Lots of fun. Great addition to The Wall!!! The double zero c3 held two falls for me. Nov 25, 2009
Scott Bennett
Michigan
  5.12a
Scott Bennett   Michigan
  5.12a
Very enjoyable for a route with about 30' of "business". With all the rests, small gear, and tricky face climbing, it feels more like climbing in Eldo than the Creek. Thanks for putting this one up! Nov 29, 2009
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
This route is awesome and from what I can tell is basically the poor man's Air Swedin. Feb 25, 2014
AL .
UT
  5.12-
AL .   UT
  5.12-
That bolt is in the PERFECT spot. Just high enough to be exciting, but, not so high above gear that you're shitting yourself. Nov 13, 2015
Braden Downey
Bellingham, WA
Braden Downey   Bellingham, WA
The protection bolt and one anchor bolt were a bit wobbly. If I was qualified to replace them, I would. Any ideas how to proceed? Apr 28, 2017
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
  5.12-
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
  5.12-
Get a 9/16 wrench and tighten the bolt until it is firm. Not cranked, but about 20 lbs of force. Everyone should cary a wrench for this. They will untighten over time. May 10, 2017
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.12-
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.12-
The every person’s Air Swedin... not the poor man’s. Cruiser crack through the sizes and airy, fun arete slapping to the chains! Sweet! Dec 21, 2018