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Routes in The Prow

Americans at Arapiles S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Black Panther Party T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cheeseball T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crow's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fool's Game T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Jolly Roger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Lacuna T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Mayflower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mayflower Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Mutiny on the Bounty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
On The Edge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pilgrims Progress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prow, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Sky at Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Rumbleseat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Sail Away T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ship Of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shittin Bricks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shotgun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UKD (Unusual Killing Device) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yardarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jason Sands
Page Views: 2,575 total · 18/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 17, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions In Place and Closures Scheduled for May 23 Details

Description [Edit]

Shittin Bricks is one of the tallest 5.12- at the Forks and is a full value adventure. Start off on a thankfully short chossy band of sandstone. Work the tight finger jams, positive small edges, gastons, and some burly stemming to reach easier though physical climbing. Slightly smaller than average fingers might be an advantage on this one.

The rest of the route is really fun, and varied with all sorts of different crack styles. Although the grade backs off it certainly keeps after you to the top! A long classic if you are looking for such...

This is also a good one to save for a strong onsight attempt as the gear is good and it is one of only two .12- routes at the Forks that's a safe bet for such.

Location [Edit]

Around the corner from the Prow, past Yardarm and all that. It kind of just appears with not too much else around it.

Protection [Edit]

Though the protection can seem dubious off the start, several good #0 and #1 TCUs will see you through to bigger gear. Then doubles from #.4 through #1 camalots. If your gonna bulk up bring extra medium units. Nothing bigger than a #1 Camalot, aside from an optional #4 at the top. Small/medium wires.

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Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
12a seems reasonable. In your face at the start to cruiser 5.10 climbing for a long ways. Requires the ability to perform all crack skills...stemming, laybacking, fingers, hands, flare, wide, face, etc. Deserves more ascents than it gets. Mar 30, 2009
Tamara Hastie
Flagstaff, Arizona
 
Tamara Hastie   Flagstaff, Arizona
 
one of the best :) extremely fun! Aug 1, 2012
Ryan Z
  5.11+
Ryan Z  
  5.11+
What a cool climb. It climbs way better than it looks. This climb is up there with three turkeys, and paradise lost in terms of quality. The grade is generous but the gear is thin. Great one for a onsight! Jul 7, 2014

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