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Shittin Bricks
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 12
votes
Routes in The Prow
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Americans at Arapiles S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Black Panther Party T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Booty on the Bounty T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cheeseball T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Crow's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fool's Game T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jolly Roger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Lacuna T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Mayflower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mayflower Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Mutiny on the Bounty T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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On The Edge T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Pilgrims Progress T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Powderfingers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Prow, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Red Sky at Night T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Rumbleseat T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Sail Away T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ship of Fools T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shittin Bricks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shotgun T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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UKD (Unusual Killing Device) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yardarm T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Jason Sands, Steve Smelser, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 4,102 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Aug 17, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Shittin Bricks is one of the tallest 5.11d/ 5.12a routes at the Forks and is a full value adventure. Start off on a thankfully short chossy band of sandstone. Work the tight finger jams, positive small edges, gastons, and some burly stemming to reach easier, though physical climbing. The upper 2/3 of the route is really fun and varied with all sorts of different crack styles. Although the grade backs off it certainly keeps after you to the top! A long, tenuous classic if you are looking for such. This is also a good one to save for a strong onsight attempt as the gear is good and straightforward.
Location
Around the corner from the Prow, past Yardarm and all that. It kind of just appears with not too much else around it.
Protection
Though the protection can seem dubious off the start, several good #00 and #0 TCUs will see you through to bigger gear. Then doubles from #.4 through #1 camalots. If your gonna bulk up bring extra medium units. Nothing bigger than a #1 Camalot, aside from an optional #4 at the top. Small/medium wires.
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