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Routes in The Gold Wall

After the Gold Rush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
An Uncertain Violence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
AuH2O T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Black and Sassy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Thieves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Of Eden T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Facial Distortions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Gold Finger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Boy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Goldilox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grievous Angel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hatchet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Helter Skelter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
King Fissure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Liquid Sky TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pacing the Cage T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rushin' Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Serpent, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Standard Fork's 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
T.L. Bush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tres Osos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waterslip Down T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worth The Weight T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
X-it T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
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Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: P. Davidson, S. Baxter, J. Haisley
Page Views: 698 total · 6/month
Shared By: Larry Coats on Jan 2, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The short but very sweet dihedral left of Goldfinger (and X-It). Climb the blocky handcrack splitting a pillar, and pull onto the lower of a two-level ledge. The crux is leaving the ledge and getting established in the dihedral. Thin face moves (unique for the Forks) lead into a more secure steep crack to the top.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Originally protected on wired stoppers, it now will accept .33 cams.

Photos

Nothing quite like:

The end of a great day of climbing, late evening, wonderful temps, a few really desperate moves off some thin wires into a stem that took a bomber #2 hex which suddenly took me from the "I'm going to splat on that ledge" to the quiet mind club.

Too bad it's got that big ledge in the middle. Almost requires you break for a belay there.

Named in honor of three things:

1. I was climbing with the King that day, Scott Baxter.

2. You can barely get tips into the corner and only in a couple of spots, hence the tongue in cheek "king fissure".

3. The King Fisher flying up and down the canyon while I belayed Scott and then Jim. They have a very odd and distinctive croak and seem to like to stay hidden. And the bird is much the same way.

I mean, come on, a King Fisher, in Arizona ? No doubt though, they're very distinctive.

There's just really nothing like climbing is there.
It doesn't get much better than to nail a difficult sequence first try as you discover that a desperate looking gear lead turns out to protect well.

Add to it that feeling of basking in the lead glow as you belay in a beautiful canyon with unusual wildlife and great friends. Ah, the beauty of life.

Why write all of this over a 30 feet corner, because it was that full moon night that Scotty convinced us to attempt the first descent of the high dive, onsight at night !

Too bad it's such a short little corner.
Took much longer to write this than to do the climb. Aug 19, 2009

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