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Routes in The Gold Wall

Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
After the Gold Rush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
An Uncertain Violence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
AuH2O T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Black and Sassy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Thieves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Of Eden T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Facial Distortions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Gold Finger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Boy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Goldilox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grievous Angel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hatchet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Helter Skelter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
King Fissure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Liquid Sky TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pacing the Cage T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rushin' Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Serpent, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Standard Fork's 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Supercrack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T.L. Bush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tres Osos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waterslip Down T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worth The Weight T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
X-it T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad
FA: Derek and Paul Davidson
Page Views: 115 total · 3/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on Jun 26, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A suprisingly fun hand crack, much more reminescent of Overlook type climbing than Forks desperados. Which makes this one of the easier leads out here.

However, there is the big chockstone in the middle of the pitch. I personally didn't touch it, preferring to straight in jam the S crack.
Stemming off the huge thing makes the climbing more reasonable. "It's so big, it can't come out."

So you either climb a really clean crack by being contrived or you take your chances.

There was a lot of loose stuff we cleaned off this thing to get it in current shape. During that cleaning a small hidden cactus was disturbed and unearthed. After replanting it, I'm happy to say it is growing great guns and has bloomed for the first time.

This was my son's first trad lead and his first FA so it made for a great time for both of us.

Dirty ledges at the bottom and very top interrupt the clean middle section (ignoring the hanging judge.) If the climb stays clean and walking over a bit of rubble to start and top out don't bother folks, then it might turn into a trade route since it's not as desperate as most things out here.

Location

Just right of Helter Skelter, out in no man's land. Start the easy way up to the block, over the block to the base of the curving hand crack.

Protection

Standard rack... Mostly hand size stuff.

Photos

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