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Routes in The Gold Wall

Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
After the Gold Rush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
An Uncertain Violence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
AuH2O T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Black and Sassy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Thieves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Of Eden T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Facial Distortions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Gold Finger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Boy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Goldilox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grievous Angel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hatchet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Helter Skelter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
King Fissure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Liquid Sky TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pacing the Cage T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rushin' Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Serpent, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Standard Fork's 5.8 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Supercrack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T.L. Bush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tres Osos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waterslip Down T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worth The Weight T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
X-it T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Paul Davidson, Larry and Tim Coats
Page Views: 1,704 total, 12/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on May 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Another classic 5.10, and a good one for those who don't like jamming.

I thought the first 15' of crimping with no gear was the crux. Bad landing, so don't fall. After that it's a well protected romp on liebacks and jugs.

Location

Look for a 10' clean lieback corner about 40 ft up the wall, the 3rd major corner left of Standard Forks 5.8.

Protection

2-3 each green Alien - #2 Camalot, 1 #3 or #3.5 for the start.

Photos

Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
 
A great route with a heads up start. It is about 15" of 5.8 climbing with no pro to an atomic bomb proof #3 Camalot when the seam opens into a pod. The lieback is short but fierce. A strong climber could climb it straight on (.75 Camalot size) but I laidback for all I was worth. The remainder of the route climbs from stance to stance with great gear.

Larry - I have been working on my "cam toss" technique, but it just doesn't seem to work that great... Apr 18, 2008
On the first ascent a "lost" technique was used to protect the moves off the ground- a nut toss into the obvious slot. If you still carry hexes, it still works to this day! Oct 28, 2007