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Routes in The Gold Wall

Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
After the Gold Rush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
An Uncertain Violence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
AuH2O T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Black and Sassy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Thieves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Of Eden T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Facial Distortions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Gold Finger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Boy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Goldilox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grievous Angel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hatchet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Helter Skelter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
King Fissure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Liquid Sky TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pacing the Cage T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rushin' Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Serpent, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Standard Fork's 5.8 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Supercrack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T.L. Bush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tres Osos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waterslip Down T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worth The Weight T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
X-it T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: David Bloom 1998
Page Views: 120 total, 1/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Mar 5, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This may be thee most aptly named route at the Forks! This line, while striking from the base, ends up dishing out more than it's fair share of chossy sections both at the bottom and top. It would be a serious lead with very real fall potential simply from corroded rock which in sections crumbles away at the touch. However, the actual splitter section of this line produces an all out tips encounter on a steep and exposed section of the Gold Wall, and is actually quite good climbing with face moves intermingled with burly finger jamming.

Could get quite a bit better with more TR traffic=Cleaner.

Location

Located just to the right of Goldfinger, a hanging garden of moss and choss leads to the obvious thin splitter.

Protection

TCUs to 1", medium/small wires.

Photos

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Floater Bloom
Flagstaff AZ
  5.12- PG13
Floater Bloom   Flagstaff AZ
  5.12- PG13
I agree that the bottom and the top of this route are pretty chossy, but the meat of the route is a great finger crack. I lead this climb circa 1998 with Rodman. Sep 5, 2014