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Routes in The Gold Wall

Ice Cream Dreams, AKA Acid Test Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
After the Gold Rush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
An Uncertain Violence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
AuH2O T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Black and Sassy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Thieves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
East Of Eden T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Facial Distortions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Gold Finger T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Boy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Goldilox T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grievous Angel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hatchet T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Helter Skelter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
King Fissure T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Liquid Sky TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pacing the Cage T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Rushin' Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Serpent, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Standard Fork's 5.8 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Supercrack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
T.L. Bush T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Tres Osos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Waterslip Down T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Worth The Weight T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
X-it T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad
FA: Paul and Derek Davidson
Page Views: 323 total, 8/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on Jun 26, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the thin fingers/face moves in the short, steep, oblique, right facing corner (crux). At top of corner, place a good nut or two up and left and traverse right into the hand crack. Start of the hands is a bit hollow & midly run out to get to the good hands, hence the PG13. If you get up the start, this shouldn't be an issue; for many folks it won't be PG13. I'd rather warn of the possibility than sucker punch the leader who is not experienced with choss.

Climb the hand crack to where the left side pillars out. Then face climb up the higher pillar on the right for fun & exposed exit moves. Watch for the solid wire out right at the exit.

After the start climb is mostly 5.9ish.

Rock is obviously not as solid as the classic forks stuff. May still need some cleaning as freeze-thaw works the winters.

Because it was an FA at the Forks some 20+ years after my last one and was done with my son on a climbing trip, spring break ~2011, it has some special signifigance for me.

If less than stellar rock is not your thing, I'd avoid the climb until others weigh in on the middle section. I think we cleaned it up ok but the first few moves in the hand crack have a pasted flake in the crack. Flake seems pretty integral to the wall but....

Location

Not on the gold wall, climbers right of Black and Sassy, see photo. Climbers left (a ways) of Shittin Bricks.

Protection

Thin finger, face to hands to face. Belay is a bit funky. I ran it to the rim, tied off a ponderosa and then back down to sit on top of pillar. Nice belay perch that way.

Photos

J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
Nicely done! Pickin up the remains years later! Jun 27, 2014